Dress for the Occasion: The Job Interview

Lately, I've received questions regarding the appropriate attire to wear for a job interview.  Now for those that may not fully understand. before I discuss clothing I need to set it up by stating that the purpose of a job interview is to have a formal exchange of information between an employer and a prospective employee with the ultimate goal of the latter receiving a job offer.  

 

When the employer's representative meets the prospective employee it's likely that his first interaction will be visual.  Therefore, I can't stress how important it is for the prospect to make a great first impression.  As the saying goes you only get to make a good first impression one time.  You want the interviewer to see you as one that will look the part even before you start to engage in conversation. 

 

There are hundreds of different occupations and for each one you need to dress appropriate for the specific job.  It's likely that a banker will dress differently than an artist.  Therefore, for the position you're interested in I'd suggest you do research and  network to find out the appropriate attire for the job and company. 

 

As I mentioned above there are literally hundreds of different occupations but for the purpose of my post I'll present the proper attire for corporate America.  Today, many corporations have gone business casual but in order to dress in that manner you first have to get the job so you still need to dress appropriately for the interview.

In consideration of the person you'll be interviewing with, more than likely that person will be stranger to you so you need to dress in a conservative manner.  There are some basic clothing items to consider: 

Brooks Brother Navy Single Breast Suit

Ralph Lauren Charcoal Gray Single Breast Suit

 

Solid White Point Collar Shirt

 

 

 

Gucci Gray Silk Tie

 

 

 

 

Calvin Klein Navy Silk Tie

 

 

 

 

 

 

Black Cap Toe Shoes 

 

 

 

 

 

Black Wing Tip Shoes

 

By the way, if you're on a tight budget you should consider shopping at a thrift store as you can find some excellent, clean reasonably priced clothing. 

 

Just to summarize:

 

There's an old saying, "When in Rome, Do as the Romans do"!  I'm going to borrow from that "When in Rome, Dress as the Romans dress"!

 

Do wear a Navy or Charcoal Gray Suit Single Breasted Suit.

Don't wear the new Slim Fit Suit.  (The suit jacket is a couple of inches shorter in the body of the jacket).

 

 

Do wear a long sleeve white shirt with a point collar and barrel cuffs.  (Short sleeves shirts aren't considered to be professional).

Don't wear a patterned or striped shirt with French cuffs (for cuff links).

 

 

Do wear a Navy or Gray solid or small patterned tie.

Don't wear a Red or brightly colored tie.  The Red tie is considered by some to connote power.  At this point, you don't have any relative to the job in which you're interviewing.  Again, you don't want any distractions and the tie could send you down the wrong path meaning you set the wrong tone for the interview.

 

 

Do make sure your black cap toe or wing tip shoes are in good condition and shined.

Don't wear any other color shoes. 

 

 

Do make sure the color of your socks match the color of your pants or shoes.

Don't wear ankle or crew socks such that your skin may show. 

  

 

Do make sure you're well groomed for your interview.

Don't overdose on the cologne and you should consider not applying any as it may prove to be a distraction. You want the focus of the interview to be on you and not how you look or smell.

 

Lastly:

Do go to the interview confident you're going to get that job.

Don't fail to do the research necessary to learn about the company and the position.

 

BEST WISHES ON THE INTERVIEW!!!!

 

 

 

Is it okay to wear white After Labor Day?

It's that time of year when folks wear their white  clothing one last time before the arrival of Labor Day for they dare not wear them afterwards!  The question arises as to whether it is now acceptable to wear white after the holiday.  I say it's absolutely, positively acceptable!  Now, there was a time when I would have agreed to the unwritten rule of not wearing white after Labor Day but that day has come and gone.  As they say, "rules are made to be broken" and this is definitely one that needs to be laid to rest.

You may ponder why there was a rule to begin so we'll explore that but first my inspiration for this posting:

 

 

Young Roger Prather Sr.

 

 

Elder Roger Prather Sr.

 

My deceased father was my first role model in terms of style, grace and class.  As you can see above as a 25 year old young man dressed in white hat and suit and as an 80 year old man he always looked exceptional in white with his big handsome smile, with pearly white teeth, and his coordinated dapper attire.  My father was a hardworking blue collar Christian man.  Now you may wonder what that has to do with wearing white.  Well, typically in years gone by the majority of men that wore white were the wealthy as that was considered to be somewhat of a status symbol.  Since it was primarily the preceding that wore white they also created the unwritten rule of when it was appropriate to wear white.  Obviously, that has changed as folks from all economic levels wear white.    Let's take a look at some others that look good in white.

D-Wade

 

Idris Elba

 

 

Alfred Edmondson Jr.*

 

 Sean Combs

 

The Notorious B.I.G. 

 

Sports celebrities, entertainers, and even editors of magazines and the like know they look good in white as this light neutral color blends well with the skin tone of Men of Color.  The color white reflects light as opposed to darker colors which absorb light.  That's one of the reasons it's more comfortable in the summer.  The materials, which consists of cotton, linen and wool are also more light weight.   The preceding is another reason why folks wear white primarily during the summer time.  However, in that the temperature in September is typically very warm I think it would be more acceptable now to wear white after Labor Day. 

*Alfred Edmondson Jr. is the Senior Vice President editor-at-large of Black Enterprise magazine.

 

 

Wynton Marsalis

 

Brother sporting an Eastern look 

 



 

Young Lawrence Fishburne

 



 Ron O'Neal as SuperFly
 

 

 

 Billy Dee Williams
 

 

 

 

The last reason that folks wear white in warmer weather is because as fall approaches towards winter, the streets become soiled due to the changes in the climate with rain and muddy conditions.  Therefore the clothing becomes more difficult to keep clean.  Who wants to go to the office and a white suit that got soiled on the way to work?  Even before I conducted the research I had my own personal rule to wear darker clothing if I learned rain was impending for this very reason. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Young Michael Jackson

 

 

 

Ray Charles

 

 

 

 Cab Calloway

 

 

 

 

Hopefully, you'll feel confident if you choose to wear white after the Labor Day Holiday.  If you choose not to then that's okay to as it's a matter of personal preference.

 

 





Pants: Flat or Pleated?

Do you prefer Flat or Pleated pants?  In other words, do you prefer a plain or classic style of pants?  It is my opinion that pleated pants are much better looking than flat front pants!  After all, another word for flat front is plain front so I'll use them interchangeably.  Whereas there are box pleated, single reverse pleated and double reverse pleated pants, there are little to no variations in flat front pants. They're all pretty much the same flavor, "plain vanilla"! Enough said!  That is just my opinion and not shared by all.    Having stated the above flat front pants do look good on some men.  Let's take a look at some icons in plain front pants:

Sammy Davis Jr.

Marvin Gaye

Richard Roundtree as "John Shaft"

Drake and Ne-Yo

It's no coincidence that the flat front pants look good on those brothers because they have the proper build which is somewhat slim.  I'm not saying that only men with slim builds can wear flat front pants.  They just look better on them because the pants have less material when compared to a pleated pair of slacks.  Otherwise, slim build men can also wear pants with pleats but they may not look as polished as they would with flat front pants for the reasons cited above.

In consideration of pants with pleats:

Bill Cosby

Supermodel Tyson

Cedric the Entertainer

Men with meat-on-the-bones look better in pants with pleats.  The extra room of the pants accomodate the man not only in terms of fit but also comfort. 

PANT STYLES

Flat - Reverse Single Pleat - Flat Western Pocket

Single - Double - Inverted Box Pleat

Tips

For durability and comfort quality dress pants should have a lining through the crotch that falls just above the knees.  

The pleats of the pants should lay flat when you're standing.  If they're open then the pants are too small. 

For durability and comfort quality dress pants should have a lining through the crotch that falls just above the knees.  

Pleated pants look better with cuffs.  The cuffs add weight to the bottom of the pants and enable the pleats to flow linearly.

The cuff should be no more than a maximum of 2 inches wide.  Cuffs vary in width from 1.25" to 2.0". 

There is a thought that men that are vertically challenged should not wear cuffs.  However, cuffs are a classy look and I'm of the opinion that the height of the man should not matter.  Having stated the preceding I do believe that the shorter the man the shorter the width of the cuff should be in consideration of the above widths.

Regardless to whether you're wearing flat or pleated pants please make sure the color of your socks match the color of your pants.  If you can't match the two exactly the pants should be darker than the socks.  Otherwise, unless you don't mind imitating Micheal Jackson you will draw undue attention to your socks.  I'm presuming those are not your intentions. 

Per the above the second option would be to match the color of the socks with the color of the shoes.  Again, the color of the socks should not be lighter than the color of the shoes.

The pants should have a slight break on top of the shoes to ensure that the pants aren't too high.  You don't want folks to think that you're a clam digger! 

Pants without cuffs should be slightly longer at the back of the bottom of the pants.

Never, never, never, never, never wear braces (suspenders) with a belt.  Did I say that enough times?  By the way, braces typically have leather endings and attach to the (six) buttons on the inside of the waist band of the pants.  Suspenders are typically metal and they attach to the exterior of the waistband.  The exceptionally well dress man wears braces as opposed to suspenders.


The bottom line is whether the pants are plain or pleated they should be made of quality material and fit properly.   There is nothing like cheap looking and/or ill fitting pants! 

All About Handkerchiefs and Pocket Squares: Let it Flow!

I've covered some, but not all, of the major clothing items but this time I'd like to talk about something that I lot of men don't consider, handkerchiefs and pocket squares.  For me, you're not completely dressed without having a handkerchief and a pocket square.

In regards to the handkerchief I'm specifically referring to a white one made of cotton.  The plain white ones are easy to care for and readily available for purchase.  Here are the primary reasons (in no specific order) why you should always have one in your suit coat/sport coat:

1. Wipe your brow when you perspire.

2. Pass the clean, unused handkerchief it to a lady when she's in need.  By the way, in terms of proper etiquette, you shouldn't ask for it back.

3. Blow your nose.  (I would only do this if there was no tissue near by)

4. Wipe your mouth if you don't have a napkin.

5. Cover your mouth when you cough as opposed to your hand. 

6. Wipe your hands.

7. Clean your glasses.

By the way, relative to the above you should never use a pocket square in lieu of a handkerchief.  Also, you should own enough handkerchiefs to carry a fresh one each day.  

In regards to pocket squares you can wear the best coordinated suit, shirt and tie but without that coordinated pocket square in that breast pocket you've fallen short of achieving that "smooth, impeccable look".  Don't get me wrong, if you have the clothing I mentioned above you will still look nice but you need that pocket square to take it to the next level.  Speaking of smooth, right about now I'd like to introduce you to the smooth song below "Let it Flow (For Dr. J)" by the late, great Grover Washington Jr.  It was his tribute to Dr. J.  Now you may ask yourself why I've chosen to insert something that has nothing to do with the subject matter.  On the contrary, when you've got that coordinated pocket square with that nice suit, shirt and tie you will look SMOOTH!!!!

Smooth Jazz - Grover Washington Jr. Let if Flow (For Dr. J.)

Pocket squares come in many colors and patterns and are made of polyester, woven microfiber, cashmere, cotton, linen and silk.  I'm not going to cover polyester and microfiber pocket squares other than to say don't buy any made out of these materials.  Go with the natural materials.  The best pocket squares are hand sewn whether they're cotton, linen or silk.

The primary benefit of cotton, cashmere and linen pocket squares is that they don't slip down in the pocket as readily as one made of silk.  However, one of the tricks I employ is add a folded 3" by 5" index card to the breast pocket to counteract the pocket squares tendency to slip down in the pocket. 

You can also have cotton and linen pocket squares monogrammed.  However, if you choose to have it monogrammed make sure it isn't visible as that's improper etiquette.  Also, you may notice that most pocket squares are made primarily of silk the same way as neck ties.  Coincidence?  I don't think so!  

The main consideration when you're pairing your pocket squares with your suit, shirt and tie is to pick a color(s) from the tie and make sure your pocket square has at least one of its colors.  In regards to wearing a patterned pocket square the preceding rule applies plus you should make sure the pattern doesn't compete for attention with any of the other patterns of the attire.  By the way, even when you don't wear a tie, for a more casual look, you should still consider sporting a pocket square.  I recall a gentleman that I met having a tan patterned sport coat, Panama straw hat, blue jeans, white linen shirt, white cotton pocket square and some tan monk strap shoes.  He was very sharp!

Let's take a look at some combinations from Bernhard Roetzel from his book Gentleman, A Timeless Guide to Fashion:

A plain but not at all bad combination is a white handkerchief with white shirt, discreet necktie and blue blazer.

A somewhat more courageous mixture of patterns in terms of shirt, necktie, and dress handkerchief.  The whole is set against the reassuring framework of a dark gray suit.

Suit, shirt, necktie and dress handkerchief all show patterns.  Thus, the overall picture is harmonious and yet interesting.

By the way, you'll notice that none of the pocket squares are preformed with peaks or otherwise.  The preformed pocket square is somewhat boring in my opinion and akin to ready-tied bow ties and clip-on ties! 

Do you know how to fold a pocket square?  I didn't think so!  Let's take a look at folding a pocket square from Alan Flusser book "Clothes and the Man".

Puffed Fold

Multi-Point Fold

Triangle Fold

Now you have all of the information you need to add the handkerchief to your suit jacket and that pocket square to that breast pocket so go ahead and have some fun experimenting with colors, patterns and textures.  I'm sure you'll will look SMOOTH!!! 

Ties - Best Selling Father's Day Present

In that ties are the most popular present given for Father's Day, which is upcoming, and since my last posting was about dress shirts I thought it would be appropriate to discuss ties.  This is the one item of clothing in which you can express your individuality.  The tie can make or break an outfit as it can make a dull suit more appealing.  However, on the other hand, it can spoil the look of a nice suit.  Given the above I believe a well dressed man should definitely invest in quality ties. 

There is a local tie entrepreneur in suburban Cincinnati that has his own line of exceptional quality ties that are sold in over 300 retail stores in America.  The owner's name is Corwyn Thomas and he is the CEO of Corwyn Apparel.  His ties have been featured in GQ magazine as well as Oprah Winfrey's O magazine.  Please check out his line of ties at:

http://www.corwynapparel.com/

I've also captured Corwyn providing a "Tie Tying Demonstration" below.

Let's discuss the features of quality ties.  First of all, ties come in a variety of materials such as wool, cashmere, linen, silk and heaven forbid, polyester.  Ties made of wool and cashmere are primarily worn in the fall and winter.  By the way, you should never wear a polyester tie unless you really don't care at all about quality and your appearance.  (I will admit that I wore poly ties back in the '70s to go with my poly suits and I bet many of you wore them as well.  After all, it was the "in thing" back in the day!)  Since the majority of quality ties are comprised of silk that will be the focus of this posting. 

The Chinese were the first to master the art of producing silk dating back to the third century BC.  Today, silk is also produced in Korea, Japan, India, France and Italy.  The complexity of producing silk makes it relatively expensive.  It is regarded as a high quality material hence it is used in neckties and other garments. 

What makes a quality tie?  According to Bernhard Roetzel in his book "Gentlemen A Timeless Guide to Fashion" the most important quality of a good necktie cannot be pictorially illustrated.  It must feel good, so you should pick it up and feel it before you buy.  It is often suggested that you should crumple the silk to see if it creases.  However, if you do try this experiment do it carefully.  Other methods of testing a tie, such as pulling at certain threads, are not necessarily a good idea either, and anyway the results are not always conclusive.  Your instant tactile impression if the best guide.  If you like what you feel, you are probably right to go ahead and buy the necktie.  

In regards to the feel of the tie, according to Alan Flusser in his book "Clothes and the Man" if the silk (non-texured) is rough to the touch, then the silk is made of inferior quality.  Silk that is not supple is very much like hair that's been dyed too often.  It's brittle and its end will fray easily.  If care hasn't been taken in the inspection of ties, you may find misweaves and puckers.

All fine ties are cut on a bias, which means they have been cut across the fabric.  This allows them to fall straight after the knot has been tied, without curling. 

Quality neckties want you to see everything: they have nothing to hide.  Originally, neckties were cut from a single large square of silk, which was then folded seven times in order to give the tie a rich fullness.  Today the price of silk and the lack of skilled artisans prohibits this form of manufacture.  Ties now derive their body and fullness by means of an additional inner lining.

Besides giving body to tie, the lining helps the tie hold its shape.  The finest-quality ties today are lined with 100 percent wool and are generally made only in Europe.  Most other quality ties use a wool mixture.  The finer the tie, the higher the wool content.  You can actually check.  Fine linings are marked with a series of gold bars which are visible if you open up the back of the tie.  The more bars, the heavier the lining.  Many people assume that a quality tie must be thick, as this would suggest that the silk is heavy and therefore expensive.  In fact, in most cases it is simply the insertion of a heavier lining that gives the tie this bulk.  Be sure, then, that the bulk of the tie that you're feeling is the silk outer fabric and not the lining. 

After you've examined the lining, take a look at the tie just above the spot where the two sides come together to form an inverted V.  In most quality ties you will find a stitch joining the back flaps.  This is called the bar tack, and it helps maintain the shape of the tie. 

 

The proper width of a tie, and one that will never be out of style, is 3.25 inches (2.75 to 3.50 inches are also acceptable).  Standard neckties come in lengths from 52 to 58 inched long.  Taller men, or those who use a Windsor knot, may require a longer tie.  After being tied, the tip of the necktie should be long enough to reach the waistband of the trousers. 

In regards to the different brands of ties.  Personally, I like high quality ties and bow ties by Corwyn Apparel, Countess Mara, Joseph A. Banks, Michael Kors and Joseph Abboud, that are colorful with a variety of designs. 

Gucci Tie

Aliexpress Tie

Michael Kors Jumbo Dots Tie

Countess Mara Havana Texture Stripe Tie

Hugo Boss Tie

Robert Talbot Tie

Paul Smith Tie

Jose Villa Bow Tie

Barry Beaux Bow Ties

Lumina Clothing Company Bow Ties

How to Tie a Tie

I realize that people learn different ways so I've captured step-by-step hyperlink guides, courtesy of Brooks Brothers, to "tying a tie" below. 


WINDSOR KNOT

Falsely named after the Duke of Windsor, the Windsor Knot (also known as the full Windsor or double Windsor) is a wide triangular knot that is usually worn for formal occasions.  This type of knot looks best worn with a shirt collar that is considerably cutaway (spread collar).  By the way, I've seen some celebrities and sports figures with these knots and the knot is so thick that it reminds me of the knob of a baseball bat; straight-up ugly.  The other liability, in my humble opinion, is that the knot takes up so much of the length of the tie that it sometimes only goes half-way down the wearer's chest which I find to be extremely unattractive and borders on the ridiculous! 



HALF WINDSOR KNOT

If you're looking for something a little more assertive try the Half-Windsor knot.  A medium triangular knot that is worn more formal than the four-in-hand, it can be worn for any occasion (preferably with standard shirt collars) and works best with somewhat wider ties made from light to medium fabrics.

SMALL KNOT

The Small Knot, as the name implies, is small and is suitable for ties made from a thick fabric (woven silk, for example) and for close-fitting collars such as a tab collar shirt.  I know from experience that this knot works well with tab collar shirts. 

FOUR-IN-HAND

Also known as a simple knot, the Four-in-Hand is believed to be the most popular method of tying ties due to its simplicity.  The knot dates back to England in the days of the coach-in-four where the men driving the coach knotted their ties in this manner to help prevent them from flapping in the wind.  The knot produced by this method is on the narrow side, slightly asymmetric, an appropriate for all occasions.  It works best with wide ties made from heavy fabrics and should be worn with a shirt with a tab collar, button down or regular spread collar.  It's a classic knot for any occasion and is most widely used.  It's also my favorite method for tying my ties! 
[
BOW TIE

The origin of the bow tie dates back to the 17th century when Croatian mercenaries fought in support of Louis XIII against Cardinal Richelieu.  As the Croats walked the streets of Paris, their brightly colored scarves caught the attention of the court.  The upper class began wearing creatively ties versions of the scarves around their necks and the bow ties were born.  How many of you knew that?  I know I didn't!    I know some folks don't care for bow ties but I like them.  One of the most dapper Men of Color I've ever known, Eddie Stephens from New York, used to sport a bow tie to work withe his suits as a Chemical Engineer.  The brother was S-H-A-R-P!!!!!  He and his wife Ann-Marie are entrepreneurs and they've created a product that will help you control your food portions and hence, your weight in the battle against diabetes and obesity.  Check them out at:

Precise Portions

In regards to the above I know I digressed but that's what happens when you're in charge.  Plus they're good folks so please check them out.  We all know somebody that's battling obesity and/or diabetes. 

Just to close, ties provide a lot of variety for any occasion whether it's business, formal, job interview or for a night on the town.  It is up to you to show how you want to be perceived.  Do yourself a favor and make sure it's a quality tie for you won't regret it (unless you spill something on it).

Ties are very delicate so let me share a few things about there care.

1. When you are removing the tie just reverse the order you used to tie it.  I know that might sound obvious but stranger things have happened. 

2. You need to try very hard not to spill anything on the tie for it could be ruined.  I tuck my tie into my shirt just below the knot to protect it when I'm eating.  Some folks through it over their back.  I've never trusted the preceding. 

3. Make sure you either hang your tie vertically or roll them up and place them in a drawer. 

4. If you have to have the tie dry cleaned don't take it to just any cleaners.  You need to ask around for one that can handle ties. 

5. Lastly, there is a frame of thought that if you have to have the tie dry cleaned you might as well throw it away for it will never be the same. 

6. I recommend purchasing a tie case to store your ties in when you travel.  It's an excellent way to protect your ties.

I know you want to avoid #5 so take special care of your ties.  After all, it's your personal investment and it expresses YOU.

All About Shirts

Shirts come in all sorts of materials, colors, styles and patterns.  However, before I provide "news you can use" on the former, let me start out by proposing two thoughts regarding dress shirts that are, in my opinion, something to strongly consider:

1. There is no such thing as a short sleeve dress shirt.  That's an oxymoron! 

2. You can never have enough white dress shirts.

Anyone that considers themselves to be well dressed should stray away from short sleeve dress shirts for they will not viewed as being well dressed.  Please consider that there may come a time during the course of the day that you may have to remove your suit jacket or sport coat.  Now unless your intention is to look like a nerd there is a simple solution: only wear long sleeve dress shirts. 

White shirts are the most acceptable color for a business shirt in corporate America.  Also, there are some companies where the white shirt is the norm for a given companies' culture.  A major advantage is that you can wear most any color suit or sport coat with a white shirt.  Regarding the preceding, some other shirt colors may actually look better with a given suit and tie but a white shirt will look presentable in most cases. 

There are many different types of dress shirts in terms of materials, colors, styles, and patterns. 

The most popular material for dress shirts is cotton in which there are many variations as listed below. 

Dress Shirt Materials

Cotton Batiste - This is a light plain weave of fine, high quality yarns.  It is made of Egyptian Mako cotton and is also described as Swiss Batiste.

Poplin - This is the term for the fabric made using fine warp yarn with a thick filling.  The character is derived from the filling.

Oxford - This is a coarser type of weave in which dyed and undyed threads are combined together.  It make soft, but hard wearing shirts. 

Royal Oxford - This is a somewhat more refined version of the Oxford weave.  It is made the same as Oxford except with finer yards.  A shirt made of Royal Oxford feels silkier and much softer than the normal Oxford shirt.

Sea Island - This is the most expensive cotton.  It is woven from a greater number of threads than poplin with about 140 thread to the inch; poplin has 100 threads to the inch.  Stripes or checks in this material therefore have a clearer definition and deeper, stronger colors.  This material is so fine that is sometimes mistaken for cotton. 

Ribbed Twill - This has characteristic diagonal structure like that
familiar from the material used in chinos.  By the way, chinos is commonly referred to as khakis but the later is actually a color and not a pair of slacks.

Herringbone Twill - This is a close relative of ribbed twill.  Both kinds of materials are woven to form a diagonal structure.  In order to achieve the typical herringbone effect the direction of the diagonals is changed at intervals of a fifth of an inch (5 mm), which creates a zigzag pattern.

In consideration of corporate America in addition to white shirts the next group of shirts one should consider purchasing are light blue and light yellow.  Beyond the above, shirts come in a myriad of colors such as royal blue, grey, French blue, ecru, tan, cream, beige, lavender, pink, and black.  On a personal note I wear them all!  In terms of color coordination one has to be careful when mixing different color shirts with suits and sport coats.  For example, you wouldn't wear a black shirt with a brown suit. 

There are a couple of recent developments in dress shirts that offer improvements in the fit of the shirt and it's maintenance.  Some shirt manufacturers have developed a tailored fit (Joseph Banks) or slim fit (Brooks Brothers) shirt.  These shirts have the same neck and arm dimensions as standard dress shirts but they're narrower in the waist.  They promote a better, smoother look as the excess material in standard shirts makes a person look as though they're larger in the waist area.

Brooks Brothers Slim Fit Shirt

Another recent development are the Non-Iron (Brooks Brothers),  Wrinkle-Free (Joseph A.Bank, Claiborne, Hart, Schaffner and Marx), Wrinkle Resistant (John Ashford) dress shirts, respectively.  The shirts are machine washable and subsequently they made be placed in the dryer.  After they have dried they are to be removed immediately and hung up and they're supposed to not have any wrinkles.  These shirts are excellent for those that travel frequently. 

Another consideration is the type of collar of the shirts.  They come in a variety of collars such as the button-down, point, tab, pin, round and the spread collar. 

Collar Types



Button Down - The button-down collar was introduced in this country by Brooks Brothers.  It was patterned after the polo shirt worn in England.  The collar is fastened by the points by buttons to keep the collar down.  It is a soft roll collar and the best tie knots to be worn with them are the Windsor and the four-in-hand knots.  By the way, this is considered to be a conservative shirt and not to be worn with a double-breasted suit. 

Point - This is the most common dress shirt collar.  It can be worn with any suit style.  The lengths of the points have varied in length over the years but the collar points should be 2 5/8" to 2 7/8" to balance the classic jacket lapel of 3 1/2" and the tie width of 3 1/4".  This collar style is suitable for all tie knots except the full Windsor.  Men with a round face would look best with a point collar. 

Tab - The tab holds the neck tie in place by utilizing tabs attached to the collar and held together under the knot of the necktie.  The tab comes with a snap button, plastic tab or a smaller button similar to the shirt buttons.  Best worn with a small knot.

Pin - The collar tips are connected by a pin of some description.  The pin supports and lifts the necktie knot.  The type of collar is not to be worn without a tie.  Best worn with a small knot.

Round - The collar is rounded as opposed to pointed like the other collar styles.  This collar complements a very dressy suit.  This collar should not be worn by a man with a round face since it would accentuates the circularity of the wearer.

Spread - This collar has a wide spread between the collar points and hence the name spread collar.  Ties that are bulky and/or wide knots are best for this type of collar.  This is considered to be the most elegant collar and especially with French Cuffs for cuff links.  Men with a narrow face with look best with a spread collar. 

Cuff Types

There are two primary types of cuffs: barrel (button)  and the French (double) cuff.  The barrel cuff is the most common and comes in a variety such as single-button, double-button and the two-button turn back.  The French cuff is the dressiest an is also found in formal shirts.  By the way, some folks sport French cuff shirts without cuff links but in my opinion one should always wear cuff links.  

Shirt Patterns

In addition to solid colors, shirts come in a wide range of patterns such as pin stripes, mini-checks, window pane, glen-plaid, checkered, and woven.  There are also shirts in which the collar is a different color than the body of the shirt.  When you're trying to coordinate your outfit make sure that the clothing flows and doesn't compete for attention.  For example, you don't want to wear a bold striped shirt with a bold striped tie.  You would be wise to wear a muted striped tie with a bold striped shirt or vice versa. 

These are exciting times in terms of recent developments in shirts and with so many variations in patterns, colors and styles one can showcase his own individuality!