All About Shoes Part II

Previously, I'd talked about one of the first considerations in purchasing shoes and that's how to care for them.  The next logical step is to consider which shoes you need to have in your wardrobe.  I believe one should have specific shoes for different occasions; business, casual, etc,.  Also, for those that have expendable cash you may want to consider having your shoes custom made. 

I've heard that there is nothing like having a pair of shoes made specifically for your feet.  You may not be aware of this but for most of us one foot is actually longer than the other one.  Granted, it may be so slight that you wouldn't notice it but it's true for most of us just the same.  However, unless you live in a major city such as New York or London, be prepared to travel to meet with the shoemaker in his shop or a swank hotel such as the Carlyle in New York City, where custom tailors and shoemakers often set up fitting rooms over several days, once or twice a year.  Custom shoe maker John Lobb, for example, lists an extensive worldwide travel schedule to meet with clients.  Therefore, the Internet is your first point of contact.  I've listed the link for John Lobb below in case you're interested.

John Lobb

The process of making shoes is also very interesting. I've included a link that demonstrates that below.

How a Pair of Louis Vuitton Mens Dress Shoes are made

Lets start by considering shoes for business.  Shoes that have laces look best with suits of which there are:

Cap toes

Wing-tips

 

Split toes

Every man should have at least 2 pair of business shoes in black and brown, respectively.  It's acceptable to wear a pair of brown shoes with a navy suit but not with a black suit and some shades of gray suits.  You can also wear cordovan/burgundy shoes with black, navy and gray suits but never with brown suits.  Also, you should never wear brown shoes with a black suit. 

In regards to casual shoes the shoes below will look good with your sport coats, blazers, polo shirts, jeans, chinos (some refer to these as khakis but that's actually a color), etc.  The same color coordination should also be considered with your casual shoes.  Of course, since the shoes are casual there will be many more colors available.

Penny loafers

Tassel loafers

Monk strap

Driving shoes

There are many more varieties of casual shoes from which to choose from and this is just a small sampling.  By the way, here are a few more things to consider:

I can't emphasize enough that's it's best to have your shoes shined and you may also want to consider adding heel and toe taps and sole savers before you wear them.  For those of you in Cincinnati I recommend Clarence Howell Shoe Repair at www.clarencehowellshoerepair.com

Due to the swelling of the feet during the day, it's best to purchase shoes after 2 pm.

Never wear the same pair of shoes two days in a row.  The shoes need to air out and breathe.

Don't forget to place cedar shoe trees in your shoes to maintain their shape.  

Don't purchase cheap shoes!  Just consider the amount of time you spend on your feet during the day.

Happy feet! 





All About Shoes Part I

 

It's been said that one of the first things a lady observes about a man is the shoes that he's wearing including whether they're shined, run over, cheap looking, etc.  If you don't believe me check out one lady's comments on the link below:

How to Tell a Man by his Shoes

 Therefore, it would behoove any man to take that into consideration when he’s shopping for shoes. Now, while I’m not suggesting that should be the main reason in choosing shoes that’s something that, as Arsenio Hall would have stated it, “things that make you go hmmm…”  Of course, there are other reasons such as occupation, quality, comfort and style. However, one of the main things that needs to be considered is the maintenance of the shoes. For example, leather shoes need to be treated differently than suede shoes. Therefore, the first part of this series on shoes will cover their care and maintenance.

In terms of shoe maintenance I thought it would be wise to speak with someone that's very knowledgeable in this area.  Therefore, I interviewed an expert in shoe maintenance and repair, Mr. Clarence Howell.  In my opinion he's the best in the business and the owner of Clarence Howell Shoe Repair.  He’s been in the business since 1976. 

Question:  What makes a good quality shoe?  The shoe should be made of a good quality leather both the top and bottom.  You should purchase name brand shoes such as Cole Haan, Johnston Murphy, Bostonian, Alan Edmonds and Florsheim Imperial. 

Question:  After you purchase a pair of shoes do you wear them right away?  First thing that should happen is to apply shoe

cream and paste to the shoes, in that order, much the same as you would put wax on a car after purchasing it to protect it from the weather. 

Question: Do leather conditioning products for shoes really work?     Yes, but you should know how to apply the products to protect the shoes. 

Question:  What type of care should the owners of new shoes impart to take care of them?   Keep them clean, as much as possible, and polished.

Question: Are there any products available that will minimize the leather sole from wearing out on the shoes? 

Yes.  It’s called a Sole Saver.  You will never have to replace the soles.  It will last for years.  

Mr. Howell I thank you for sharing your knowledge to my readers as well as the advice and services that you’ve given me over the years. 

Mr. Howell’s shop is located at 6089 Montgomery road in the Cincinnati neighborhood of Pleasant Ridge.  The phone number is 513-531-7463.  He also has a website:

Clarence Shoe Repair

I've been caring for my shoes since I was in elementary school.  My father taught me how to shine shoes and care for them.  Here are some things to consider in addition to what's been cited by Mr. Howell:

1.   Never wear leather shoes two days in a row.  Leather needs to air out and breathe.

2.   Subsequent to wearing the shoes take the time to wipe the dust off with a rag or soft paper tissue.

3.   Place cedar shoe trees in the shoes for storage.  They will help them maintain their shape and remove moisture.

4.   Shoes should be shined as needed.  Make sure you have the appropriate shoe crèmes and paste to keep them shined as much as possible.  You want to match the color of the above as close as possible to the color of the shoes.  In addition to the shoe crème and polish make sure you have a good quality shoe brush, made of horsehair, and  rags which could consist of old t-shirts.

5.   Prior to shining the shoes make sure they’re cleaned as you don’t want to apply polish to a dirty shoe just like you wouldn’t apply wax to a dirty car.

6.   In inclement weather wear shoe rubbers to protect them from the elements.  In the event you get caught wearing them in bad weather remove them as soon as possible and place newspaper in them to help them dry out. 

7.   Suede, Nubuck and Patent Leather shoes require special products designed specifically for them. 

Let’s take a look at the results from not taking care of your shoes.

Hole-in-One

Before and After

Thinning Out! 

Botox won’t Help!!!

These shoes were made for walking!

President Barack Obama was on the campaign trail in 2008.  Obviously, he did a lot of walking and he didn’t have the time to get his shoes cared for.

I hope that I’ve shed some light on how to care for your dress shoes.  Remember that the first impression is a lasting one. 

NOTE:  All photos were courtesy of Goggle Images. 

How to Select a Tailor

I appreciate the feedback and support that you, my readers, have given me.  For this blog I’m going to address an issue that several of you have brought to my attention and that is how to select a tailor.  You’ll want to select a good tailor as he/she can make a big difference in terms of how your clothes fit you.  Whether the clothing is bespoke (tailored from scratch) or off the rack they can make a big difference in terms of your appearance.  Also, please check out the videos of President Obama’s tailor, Ozwald Boateng.  He was born in Great Britain but his parents are from the African country of Ghana.  This brother, who has a shop on one of the most famous streets in Great Britain, Savile Row, also creates suits for a lot of celebrities.  Savile Row is known in the fashion industry for having some of the greatest tailors in the world.     I’ve also included videos entitled “How to Find a Local Tailor”, “The Fitting” and “Know your Size”.  At the very bottom there's a video on a documenary on Mr. Boateng as well as a link in which Tall Guy interviews the first Black Male Superstar model Renauld White.  By the way, whenever you go for a clothing fitting you would be wise to wear a dress shirt and the shoes that you plan to wear with the suit and/or slacks.  Enjoy! 

Tailoring for President Obama

Ozwald Boateng: Why Style Matters

How to Find a Local Tailor
 

Know Your Size
 

Please observe below a comprehensive list of things that need to be considered in choosing a tailor.

Education

I would suggest that before you select a tailor make sure you understand the appropriate fit of a suit, slacks, etc.  That will allow you to be educated enough to have a meaningful conversation with potential tailors for hire.  You should take the same due diligence approach as if you were making an investment in yourself because that really is what you’re doing.  After all, people will judge you by your appearance and clothes that don’t fit properly may give off a negative vibe to observers.  I’ve provided some illustrations below at the end of the categories that demonstrate how the fitting may take place. 

Experience

In regards to experience don't be afraid to ask them about it.  Did they provide tailoring services for a clothier and if so, for how long?  Are they a Mom and Pop shop?  I know of a gentleman that works at a men's clothier and although he states that he's a tailor it's my understanding he does very simple things such as sew buttons and hem slacks so it appears his experience is limited.  You want to make sure the tailor can provide the services that you need as a customer.  I once had the sleeves shortened on a sport coat and much to my surprise the buttons weren't moved accordingly.  I was not happy but part of it was my fault because I didn't ask the tailor to move the buttons but rather I assumed she would.  That's what I got for assuming she knew to relocate them on the sport coat!  

Other questions to pose to potential tailors:  

Can he/she hem pants with cuffs?

Shorten/lengthen suit coat sleeves?  The preceding will require them to relocate the button holes on the suit jacket.  By the way, it's been my observation that with a lot of customers one arm is longer than the other one. 

Can they take in or let out the waist, seat or crotch of the pants?

Can he/she shorten the collar or lower the back of the suit jacket?

Can he/she let out or take in the sides of the suit jacket?

Can they properly reset the buttons on the suit jacket?

Can he/she replace the zipper?

Does he/she know a lot about fabrics and their properties, the drape of the cloth, cleaning methods? 

As I stated above make sure they can provide the specific services you require as a customer.

Sample of Work



The tailor shop should have clothes that are waiting to be picked up by customers so they should be able to show you samples of their work.  Don't hesitate to ask them to show you their finished alterations.  Specifically, you should ask to see samples of the work that you'll require.



Referals



Word of mouth if the best testimony so by all means ask around.  Check with people who look good in their clothes and they fit properly.  The presuming assumes that you recognize proper fit. If you're uncertain please review my blog 'All about Suits' part III.  You may also want to check with the Better Business Bureau to make sure there haven't been any problems. 

Communication Skills

The best combination is a tailor that's knowledgeable and has good communication skills.   You should seek a tailor that listens and understands your requirements without steering you to what they want for you.  Does he/she take his/her time with you and make you feel comfortable, or is he/she in a hurry and lacks caring?  Does the bill accurately depict the service to be rendered? 

Classic or Trendy Tailoring

If the tailor has been providing services for a good number of years it's likely that they're familiar with classic tailoring but be weary of a Johnny-come-lately tailor as he/she may be one that prefers to provide services according to the lastest trends and therefore may not be experienced enough to complete the service according to your requirements.  

Customer Service/Satisfaction

Since the tailor is in the service industry one would hope he/she would have good customer service skills.  However, that isn't always the case.  Howver, more than likely when you solicit potential tailors you'll be able to assess their customer service skills. It is also important to know what type of warranty the tailor will provide for services rendered.  In the event the item doesn't fit right you need to know if the tailor will resolve the issue free of charge.  A good tailor will gurantee their work meaning they will meet the customer's requirements.  

Pricing

You should always check with each potential tailor to find out the prices they charge for the services to be performed.  A good tailor will charge a competitive rate.  If you find a tailor that charges a considerably lesser rate then the others then you need to be wary for something could be awry such as a lack of experience, lack of customers, etc.  There has to be a reason for a less than competitive rate. 

The Fitting

Shirt Sleeve Measurement

When measuring the sleeve length, make sure you start the tape just below the neck, centered with the spine.  Make sure the tape measure goes over the top of the customer’s shoulder.  Take the tape down the arm to the point of their elbow and then measure an inch and a half past the wrist bone.  It is always better to measure long versus short because a sleeve that is too short will unacceptable. 

Since the tailor is in the service industry hopefully he/she will have good customer service skills.  Unfortunately, that isn't always the case.  However, more than likely when you interview potential tailors for hire you'll be able to assess their customer service skills.  Also, ask they if they gurantee their work.
 

 Turnaround Time

Can they complete the work in accordance with your time requirments?  Some tailors are so busy that the turnaround time is greater than 1 week.  If that's acceptable to you then so be it but you need to ask them when will the service be completed.  Furthermore, make sure the tailor indicates the completion date on the claim ticket.

Note: The Overarm measurement is primarily for tuxedo fittings.

The hip measurement is also primarily for tuxedo fittings.

The Outseam for Slacks

For the picture above on the left above, ask the gentleman to look straight ahead during this measurement.  Place the start of the tape at the side of his waist level to the navel.  Stretch the tape down the side of the leg until you reach the top of the heel on your customer’s shoe.  This is the correct outseam measurement. 

For the picture on the right, if the customer is not wearing dress shoes, have him remove the shoes and place the start of the tape at the customer’s waist level to his navel.  Measure to the floor and record the number. 

'A Man's Story' Preview - Ozwald Boateng documentary film

Renauld White Interview with Tall Guide

I hope you have a better understanding on what it takes to select a tailor.  If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.

Douglas

All About Suits Part IV

In consideration of Black History Month I’d like to take a look at the suit stylings of the Men of Color over the years.  Men of Color have a rich history of looking “regal” with lots of colors and originality dating back to when black people began worshipping in the church in their “Sunday best” up until present day.  Throughout history Men of Color have been and continue to be trend setters despite their station in life.  There were and still are a number of trend setters amongst Men of Color including performers, actors, sports figures and political leaders.  The pictures you are about to review will speak for themselves.  I’m sure you’ll agree that the Men of Color are SHARP!  However, I’d like to know who you think should be among these pictures so I’d like to hear back from you.  Please consider commenting at the very end of the blog or even better, please consider joining.  It won’t cost you anything.  (To add a comment just click on the word comment towards the bottom of the blog and a window will open to capture your feedback.  If you like to become a member click on the “Followers” banner at the top of the page on the right side.  If you’d like to see parts I, II and III of this series on suits please click on “Older Posts” at the bottom right side of this posting.) 
Now let’s take a look Men of Color over the years!  

Turn of the 20th Century

Business Attire

VanderZee Men 1909

Southern Businessman 1910

1920s

Activist Marcus Garvey and Associates 

The Great Paul Robeson

Young Louis Armstrong

1930s

4 Gold Medals in the 1936 Berlin Olympics

Jesse Owens

One of the greatest Dancers and Crooners

Bill Bojangles Robinson and the Mills Brothers

Author of "Native Son"

Richard Wright

1940s

Jazz Greats

Charley "Bird" Parker, Dizzy Gillespie and John Coltrane

Unknown Brothers

Dancing at the Savoy Ballroom in Harlem

Spike Lee and Denzel Washington don Zoot Suits in Malcolm X movie

Jazz Greats

Thelonius Monk, Howard McGhee, Roy Eldridge, Teddy Hill at Milton's Playhouse

Unknown Black Family Portrait

1950s

Crooner Nat King Cole

Congressman Adam Clayton Powell on the right

The Greatest Musician of all time Miles Davis

Martin Luther King and his Men

The Incomparable John Coltrane

1960s

Morehouse Men

Motown's The Fourtops 

Oscar Winning Actor Sidney Poiter

1970s

Funniest Comedian of all time Richard Pryor

Ladies Man Billie Dee Williams

Brothers with their "Main Squeeze"

One of the Greatest Entertainers Michael Jackson

1980s

Ebony Founder John Johnson

Philip Michael Thomas from Miami TV series Miami Vice

Corporate Brothers

Blair Underwood from TV series LA Law

1990s

Former NYC Mayor David Dinkins

Black Enterprise Magazine Founder Earl G. Graves Sr. 

Former San Franciso Mayor Willie Brown

My All time favorite Baskeball Player Earvin "Magic" Johnson

2000s

Busiest Actor Samuel L. Jackson

Former NY Giant Tiki Barber

Don Banks (Tyra's Father)

Today

Best Dressed President of all time

Barack Obama

Photo Credits

Men of Color Fashion, History, Fundamentals, Lloyd Boston

Business Attire 134; VanDerZee men 18; Southern Business Man 20; Activist Marcus Garvey and Associates 132; Young Louis Armstrong 134; Jesse Owens 111; Bojangles and the Mills Brothers 12;

Unknown Brothers 21; Dancing at the Savoy 13; Spike and Denzel in Zoot Suits 85; Monk, McGhee, Eldridge, Hill 29; Unknown Black Family Portrait 137; Nat King Cole 29; Adam Clayton Powell 22;

Coltrane 30; Morehouse Men 22; Four Tops 51; Brothers with their Main Squeeze 23; Michael Jackson 25; Philip Michael Thomas 77; Corporate Brothers 25; Blair Underwood 76; David Dinkins 217; Willie Brown 217; Magic Johnson 122                                                                                              

 America I AM Legends Rare Moments and Inspiring Word, Tavis Smiley

Paul Robeson 27; Richard Wright 49; Bird, Dizz and Trane 73; MLK and his Men 82;

Sidney Poiter 122; Richard Pryor 74; John Johnson 103;

 October  2011 GQ Magazine

Miles Davis 122

Make Over Your Man, Lloyd Boston

Samuel L. Jackson 21; Tiki Barber 39; Don Banks 137

Salient News Sept. 19, 2011

President Barack Obama