I've covered some, but not all, of the major clothing items but this time I'd like to talk about something that I lot of men don't consider, handkerchiefs and pocket squares. For me, you're not completely dressed without having a handkerchief and a pocket square.
In regards to the handkerchief I'm specifically referring to a white one made of cotton. The plain white ones are easy to care for and readily available for purchase. Here are the primary reasons (in no specific order) why you should always have one in your suit coat/sport coat:
1. Wipe your brow when you perspire.
2. Pass the clean, unused handkerchief it to a lady when she's in need. By the way, in terms of proper etiquette, you shouldn't ask for it back.
3. Blow your nose. (I would only do this if there was no tissue near by)
4. Wipe your mouth if you don't have a napkin.
5. Cover your mouth when you cough as opposed to your hand.
6. Wipe your hands.
7. Clean your glasses.
By the way, relative to the above you should never use a pocket square in lieu of a handkerchief. Also, you should own enough handkerchiefs to carry a fresh one each day.
In regards to pocket squares you can wear the best coordinated suit, shirt and tie but without that coordinated pocket square in that breast pocket you've fallen short of achieving that "smooth, impeccable look". Don't get me wrong, if you have the clothing I mentioned above you will still look nice but you need that pocket square to take it to the next level. Speaking of smooth, right about now I'd like to introduce you to the smooth song below "Let it Flow (For Dr. J)" by the late, great Grover Washington Jr. It was his tribute to Dr. J. Now you may ask yourself why I've chosen to insert something that has nothing to do with the subject matter. On the contrary, when you've got that coordinated pocket square with that nice suit, shirt and tie you will look SMOOTH!!!!
Pocket squares come in many colors and patterns and are made of polyester, woven microfiber, cashmere, cotton, linen and silk. I'm not going to cover polyester and microfiber pocket squares other than to say don't buy any made out of these materials. Go with the natural materials. The best pocket squares are hand sewn whether they're cotton, linen or silk.
The primary benefit of cotton, cashmere and linen pocket squares is that they don't slip down in the pocket as readily as one made of silk. However, one of the tricks I employ is add a folded 3" by 5" index card to the breast pocket to counteract the pocket squares tendency to slip down in the pocket.
You can also have cotton and linen pocket squares monogrammed. However, if you choose to have it monogrammed make sure it isn't visible as that's improper etiquette. Also, you may notice that most pocket squares are made primarily of silk the same way as neck ties. Coincidence? I don't think so!
The main consideration when you're pairing your pocket squares with your suit, shirt and tie is to pick a color(s) from the tie and make sure your pocket square has at least one of its colors. In regards to wearing a patterned pocket square the preceding rule applies plus you should make sure the pattern doesn't compete for attention with any of the other patterns of the attire. By the way, even when you don't wear a tie, for a more casual look, you should still consider sporting a pocket square. I recall a gentleman that I met having a tan patterned sport coat, Panama straw hat, blue jeans, white linen shirt, white cotton pocket square and some tan monk strap shoes. He was very sharp!
Let's take a look at some combinations from Bernhard Roetzel from his book Gentleman, A Timeless Guide to Fashion:
A plain but not at all bad combination is a white handkerchief with white shirt, discreet necktie and blue blazer.
A somewhat more courageous mixture of patterns in terms of shirt, necktie, and dress handkerchief. The whole is set against the reassuring framework of a dark gray suit.
Suit, shirt, necktie and dress handkerchief all show patterns. Thus, the overall picture is harmonious and yet interesting.
By the way, you'll notice that none of the pocket squares are preformed with peaks or otherwise. The preformed pocket square is somewhat boring in my opinion and akin to ready-tied bow ties and clip-on ties!
Do you know how to fold a pocket square? I didn't think so! Let's take a look at folding a pocket square from Alan Flusser book "Clothes and the Man".
Puffed Fold
Multi-Point Fold
Triangle Fold
Now you have all of the information you need to add the handkerchief to your suit jacket and that pocket square to that breast pocket so go ahead and have some fun experimenting with colors, patterns and textures. I'm sure you'll will look SMOOTH!!!
In that ties are the most popular present given for Father's Day, which is upcoming, and since my last posting was about dress shirts I thought it would be appropriate to discuss ties. This is the one item of clothing in which you can express your individuality. The tie can make or break an outfit as it can make a dull suit more appealing. However, on the other hand, it can spoil the look of a nice suit. Given the above I believe a well dressed man should definitely invest in quality ties.
There is a local tie entrepreneur in suburban Cincinnati that has his own line of exceptional quality ties that are sold in over 300 retail stores in America. The owner's name is Corwyn Thomas and he is the CEO of Corwyn Apparel. His ties have been featured in GQ magazine as well as Oprah Winfrey's O magazine. Please check out his line of ties at:
I've also captured Corwyn providing a "Tie Tying Demonstration" below.
Let's discuss the features of quality ties. First of all, ties come in a variety of materials such as wool, cashmere, linen, silk and heaven forbid, polyester. Ties made of wool and cashmere are primarily worn in the fall and winter. By the way, you should never wear a polyester tie unless you really don't care at all about quality and your appearance. (I will admit that I wore poly ties back in the '70s to go with my poly suits and I bet many of you wore them as well. After all, it was the "in thing" back in the day!) Since the majority of quality ties are comprised of silk that will be the focus of this posting.
The Chinese were the first to master the art of producing silk dating back to the third century BC. Today, silk is also produced in Korea, Japan, India, France and Italy. The complexity of producing silk makes it relatively expensive. It is regarded as a high quality material hence it is used in neckties and other garments.
What makes a quality tie? According to Bernhard Roetzel in his book "Gentlemen A Timeless Guide to Fashion" the most important quality of a good necktie cannot be pictorially illustrated. It must feel good, so you should pick it up and feel it before you buy. It is often suggested that you should crumple the silk to see if it creases. However, if you do try this experiment do it carefully. Other methods of testing a tie, such as pulling at certain threads, are not necessarily a good idea either, and anyway the results are not always conclusive. Your instant tactile impression if the best guide. If you like what you feel, you are probably right to go ahead and buy the necktie.
In regards to the feel of the tie, according to Alan Flusser in his book "Clothes and the Man" if the silk (non-texured) is rough to the touch, then the silk is made of inferior quality. Silk that is not supple is very much like hair that's been dyed too often. It's brittle and its end will fray easily. If care hasn't been taken in the inspection of ties, you may find misweaves and puckers.
All fine ties are cut on a bias, which means they have been cut across the fabric. This allows them to fall straight after the knot has been tied, without curling.
Quality neckties want you to see everything: they have nothing to hide. Originally, neckties were cut from a single large square of silk, which was then folded seven times in order to give the tie a rich fullness. Today the price of silk and the lack of skilled artisans prohibits this form of manufacture. Ties now derive their body and fullness by means of an additional inner lining.
Besides giving body to tie, the lining helps the tie hold its shape. The finest-quality ties today are lined with 100 percent wool and are generally made only in Europe. Most other quality ties use a wool mixture. The finer the tie, the higher the wool content. You can actually check. Fine linings are marked with a series of gold bars which are visible if you open up the back of the tie. The more bars, the heavier the lining. Many people assume that a quality tie must be thick, as this would suggest that the silk is heavy and therefore expensive. In fact, in most cases it is simply the insertion of a heavier lining that gives the tie this bulk. Be sure, then, that the bulk of the tie that you're feeling is the silk outer fabric and not the lining.
After you've examined the lining, take a look at the tie just above the spot where the two sides come together to form an inverted V. In most quality ties you will find a stitch joining the back flaps. This is called the bar tack, and it helps maintain the shape of the tie.
The proper width of a tie, and one that will never be out of style, is 3.25 inches (2.75 to 3.50 inches are also acceptable). Standard neckties come in lengths from 52 to 58 inched long. Taller men, or those who use a Windsor knot, may require a longer tie. After being tied, the tip of the necktie should be long enough to reach the waistband of the trousers.
In regards to the different brands of ties. Personally, I like high quality ties and bow ties by Corwyn Apparel, Countess Mara, Joseph A. Banks, Michael Kors and Joseph Abboud, that are colorful with a variety of designs.
Gucci Tie
Aliexpress Tie
Michael Kors Jumbo Dots Tie
Countess Mara Havana Texture Stripe Tie
Hugo Boss Tie
Robert Talbot Tie
Paul Smith Tie
Jose Villa Bow Tie
Barry Beaux Bow Ties
Lumina Clothing Company Bow Ties
How to Tie a Tie
I realize that people learn different ways so I've captured step-by-step hyperlink guides, courtesy of Brooks Brothers, to "tying a tie" below.
Falsely named after the Duke of Windsor, the Windsor Knot (also known as the full Windsor or double Windsor) is a wide triangular knot that is usually worn for formal occasions. This type of knot looks best worn with a shirt collar that is considerably cutaway (spread collar). By the way, I've seen some celebrities and sports figures with these knots and the knot is so thick that it reminds me of the knob of a baseball bat; straight-up ugly. The other liability, in my humble opinion, is that the knot takes up so much of the length of the tie that it sometimes only goes half-way down the wearer's chest which I find to be extremely unattractive and borders on the ridiculous!
If you're looking for something a little more assertive try the Half-Windsor knot. A medium triangular knot that is worn more formal than the four-in-hand, it can be worn for any occasion (preferably with standard shirt collars) and works best with somewhat wider ties made from light to medium fabrics.
The Small Knot, as the name implies, is small and is suitable for ties made from a thick fabric (woven silk, for example) and for close-fitting collars such as a tab collar shirt. I know from experience that this knot works well with tab collar shirts.
Also known as a simple knot, the Four-in-Hand is believed to be the most popular method of tying ties due to its simplicity. The knot dates back to England in the days of the coach-in-four where the men driving the coach knotted their ties in this manner to help prevent them from flapping in the wind. The knot produced by this method is on the narrow side, slightly asymmetric, an appropriate for all occasions. It works best with wide ties made from heavy fabrics and should be worn with a shirt with a tab collar, button down or regular spread collar. It's a classic knot for any occasion and is most widely used. It's also my favorite method for tying my ties! [ BOW TIE
The origin of the bow tie dates back to the 17th century when Croatian mercenaries fought in support of Louis XIII against Cardinal Richelieu. As the Croats walked the streets of Paris, their brightly colored scarves caught the attention of the court. The upper class began wearing creatively ties versions of the scarves around their necks and the bow ties were born. How many of you knew that? I know I didn't! I know some folks don't care for bow ties but I like them. One of the most dapper Men of Color I've ever known, Eddie Stephens from New York, used to sport a bow tie to work withe his suits as a Chemical Engineer. The brother was S-H-A-R-P!!!!! He and his wife Ann-Marie are entrepreneurs and they've created a product that will help you control your food portions and hence, your weight in the battle against diabetes and obesity. Check them out at:
In regards to the above I know I digressed but that's what happens when you're in charge. Plus they're good folks so please check them out. We all know somebody that's battling obesity and/or diabetes.
Just to close, ties provide a lot of variety for any occasion whether it's business, formal, job interview or for a night on the town. It is up to you to show how you want to be perceived. Do yourself a favor and make sure it's a quality tie for you won't regret it (unless you spill something on it).
Ties are very delicate so let me share a few things about there care.
1. When you are removing the tie just reverse the order you used to tie it. I know that might sound obvious but stranger things have happened.
2. You need to try very hard not to spill anything on the tie for it could be ruined. I tuck my tie into my shirt just below the knot to protect it when I'm eating. Some folks through it over their back. I've never trusted the preceding.
3. Make sure you either hang your tie vertically or roll them up and place them in a drawer.
4. If you have to have the tie dry cleaned don't take it to just any cleaners. You need to ask around for one that can handle ties.
5. Lastly, there is a frame of thought that if you have to have the tie dry cleaned you might as well throw it away for it will never be the same.
6. I recommend purchasing a tie case to store your ties in when you travel. It's an excellent way to protect your ties.
I know you want to avoid #5 so take special care of your ties. After all, it's your personal investment and it expresses YOU.
