All About Handkerchiefs and Pocket Squares: Let it Flow!

I've covered some, but not all, of the major clothing items but this time I'd like to talk about something that I lot of men don't consider, handkerchiefs and pocket squares.  For me, you're not completely dressed without having a handkerchief and a pocket square.

In regards to the handkerchief I'm specifically referring to a white one made of cotton.  The plain white ones are easy to care for and readily available for purchase.  Here are the primary reasons (in no specific order) why you should always have one in your suit coat/sport coat:

1. Wipe your brow when you perspire.

2. Pass the clean, unused handkerchief it to a lady when she's in need.  By the way, in terms of proper etiquette, you shouldn't ask for it back.

3. Blow your nose.  (I would only do this if there was no tissue near by)

4. Wipe your mouth if you don't have a napkin.

5. Cover your mouth when you cough as opposed to your hand. 

6. Wipe your hands.

7. Clean your glasses.

By the way, relative to the above you should never use a pocket square in lieu of a handkerchief.  Also, you should own enough handkerchiefs to carry a fresh one each day.  

In regards to pocket squares you can wear the best coordinated suit, shirt and tie but without that coordinated pocket square in that breast pocket you've fallen short of achieving that "smooth, impeccable look".  Don't get me wrong, if you have the clothing I mentioned above you will still look nice but you need that pocket square to take it to the next level.  Speaking of smooth, right about now I'd like to introduce you to the smooth song below "Let it Flow (For Dr. J)" by the late, great Grover Washington Jr.  It was his tribute to Dr. J.  Now you may ask yourself why I've chosen to insert something that has nothing to do with the subject matter.  On the contrary, when you've got that coordinated pocket square with that nice suit, shirt and tie you will look SMOOTH!!!!

Smooth Jazz - Grover Washington Jr. Let if Flow (For Dr. J.)

Pocket squares come in many colors and patterns and are made of polyester, woven microfiber, cashmere, cotton, linen and silk.  I'm not going to cover polyester and microfiber pocket squares other than to say don't buy any made out of these materials.  Go with the natural materials.  The best pocket squares are hand sewn whether they're cotton, linen or silk.

The primary benefit of cotton, cashmere and linen pocket squares is that they don't slip down in the pocket as readily as one made of silk.  However, one of the tricks I employ is add a folded 3" by 5" index card to the breast pocket to counteract the pocket squares tendency to slip down in the pocket. 

You can also have cotton and linen pocket squares monogrammed.  However, if you choose to have it monogrammed make sure it isn't visible as that's improper etiquette.  Also, you may notice that most pocket squares are made primarily of silk the same way as neck ties.  Coincidence?  I don't think so!  

The main consideration when you're pairing your pocket squares with your suit, shirt and tie is to pick a color(s) from the tie and make sure your pocket square has at least one of its colors.  In regards to wearing a patterned pocket square the preceding rule applies plus you should make sure the pattern doesn't compete for attention with any of the other patterns of the attire.  By the way, even when you don't wear a tie, for a more casual look, you should still consider sporting a pocket square.  I recall a gentleman that I met having a tan patterned sport coat, Panama straw hat, blue jeans, white linen shirt, white cotton pocket square and some tan monk strap shoes.  He was very sharp!

Let's take a look at some combinations from Bernhard Roetzel from his book Gentleman, A Timeless Guide to Fashion:

A plain but not at all bad combination is a white handkerchief with white shirt, discreet necktie and blue blazer.

A somewhat more courageous mixture of patterns in terms of shirt, necktie, and dress handkerchief.  The whole is set against the reassuring framework of a dark gray suit.

Suit, shirt, necktie and dress handkerchief all show patterns.  Thus, the overall picture is harmonious and yet interesting.

By the way, you'll notice that none of the pocket squares are preformed with peaks or otherwise.  The preformed pocket square is somewhat boring in my opinion and akin to ready-tied bow ties and clip-on ties! 

Do you know how to fold a pocket square?  I didn't think so!  Let's take a look at folding a pocket square from Alan Flusser book "Clothes and the Man".

Puffed Fold

Multi-Point Fold

Triangle Fold

Now you have all of the information you need to add the handkerchief to your suit jacket and that pocket square to that breast pocket so go ahead and have some fun experimenting with colors, patterns and textures.  I'm sure you'll will look SMOOTH!!!