All About Suits Part III

In working in the men’s clothing industry and as a keen observer I’ve noticed that some men’s suits don’t fit them properly.  You’ve got the “Big Barney” look, that is, a big man wearing a purple suit that is so loud that one can’t help but compare him to the character that kids love.  Then you have the brother that’s vertically challenged like Spike Lee wearing an 8-button double breasted suit that looks like it’s his little brother’s overcoat.  Then there’s the short, portly brother that looks like the “grape man” character in the “Fruit of the Loom” commercial with lumps everywhere due to the tightness of the suit.

In consideration of the fit of the suit, the ideal build is for one to be tall, with broad shoulders and a slim waist.  Now we know that’s not reality for most men but that’s the working model for the discussion for looking your best.  Therefore, whether you’re tall like Magic Johnson, short like Prince or portly like Cedric the Entertainer, there are some guidelines to be followed that will enable you to look your best.  By the way, I highly recommend that if you don’t have a personal tailor you consider getting one.  My tailor is a Man of Color, Robby Brookins.  He is the best in the business with many years of experience.  The name of the shop is Robby’s Quality Alterations and it’s in Wyoming, Ohio, a suburb of Cincinnati.  He may be reached at 513-948-1277.

Please consider the general guidelines that follow.

 

Tall and thin:

Do:

·        Wear 3-button single breasted suits; three-piece suits to add bulk                    

·        Consider suits with shoulder pads to bulk up your shoulders

Do not:

·        Wear tight suits that accentuate your thin limbs

Big and tall:

Do:

·        Wear suit pants with cuffs

·        Wear  navy and dark suits          

Do not:

·        Wear suits with large patterns or loud colors like purple  (kids may confuse you for Big Barney)

·        Wear suits with shoulder pads that would make you look like Herman the Muster!!!

                                                                                   

Short and slim:

Do:

·        Wear single breasted 3- button and double breasted suits

·        Wear suits with flap or patch pockets

·        Wear suits with pin stripes or window pane patterns

·        Dress large

Do not:

·        Avoid contrast between top and bottom like sport coats or blazers with pants (it breaks up the vertical line)

By the way, I don't believe in the rule regarding wearing sports coats or blazers with slacks. If it looks good observers will be captured by the look rather than the appearance of not looking as tall!

Short and heavy:

Do:

·        Dress “large”

·        Wear single breasted 2 –button suits  

·        Wear suits with peaked lapels, besom pockets

·        Wear suits with solids and vertical patterns, medium or dark colors (dark colors make you look smaller)                                                                       

Do not:

·        Wear tight fitting clothes

·        Avoid suits with short rolled lapels, flaps pockets or patch pockets

·        Wear light colors

·        Avoid improper fitting vest on three-piece suits

*Athletic build:

Do:

·        Wear slightly longer suit coat

·        Wear single breasted 2-button suits

·        Wear suits with larger arm holes and wider sleeves           

Do not:

·        Wear tight a suit coat such that the biceps are visible

·        Pants shouldn’t be too tight!

“Brothers with back”:

Do:

·        Wear suits with vent less or single vents                    

Do not:

·        Wear suits with double vents that make you look like you have a book shelf!

*Suits have a difference five or six inches between suit coat and slacks. The athletic build has a difference of 8 inches.

Let’s take a closer look at the proper fit of the different parts of the suit.

[1]The Jacket Shoulder

I wouldn’t necessarily be this detailed but for those that are it’s a nice guideline to follow. 

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[1] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 37. 

[2]Jacket Length Relative to Jacket Bottom

Since the arm’s length may be somewhat not proportional to the jacket bottom one must always consider that the jacket should cover the buttocks.

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[2] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 41. 

[3]For the Stout Man

This will work for all sizes when the suit is fitted properly.

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[3] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 50. 

 

[4]The Double Breasted Suit Coat

The double breasted suit is for the man that wants to be impeccably dressed!

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[4] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 51. 

[5]Suit Jacket Collar

                                                                                                                           

Between the two misfits the “standing away” is more common and can sometimes be subtle.  The “bunching in the back” is more obvious. 

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[5] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 57. 

[6]Proper Fit

When the jacket fits properly its very smooth, natural and flawless! 

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[6] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 58. 

[7]Suit Jacket Collar vs the Shirt

This is one of the most overlooked areas in consideration of the fit of the suit. 

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[7] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 58. 

[8]Suit Jacket Closure

I’ve witnessed some suit jackets on some Men of Color that looked like they could pop off at any moment.  Not a good thing! 

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[8] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 59. 

[9]Shirt Cuff

This really is a matter of personal preference.  However, it does look more formal to show your shirt cuff.  Especially with French cuff shirts which require cuff links.  Regarding the preceding it would defeat the purpose of the shirt if the cuffs were not visible.  Also, I’ve witnessed some Men of Color wear French Cuff shirts sans cuff links but personally I would never wear them without cuff links.  They are made together like “hand-in-glove”!!!

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[9] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 59. 

[10]The Vest

By the way, in my opinion it is very unattractive for the overweight mans’ bulge to be visible beneath the vest.  More to the point, the visibly overweight man would be better off not wearing a vest.  Also, thin men should consider the three-piece suit to add some bulk. 

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[10] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 60. 

[11]The Trouser

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[11] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 61. 

[12]Bottom of Trousers

I highly recommend cuffs on dress slacks.  They anchor the pants by adding weight which promotes linearity which in turn enhances the crease of the pants plus they’re classic! 

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[12] Dressing the Man,  Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, Alan Flusser, (New York: Harper Collins Publishers Inc. , 2002) page 61. 

In summary, hopefully I’ve provided you with some information you can use in purchasing a suit.  You owe it to yourself too look good in your personal investment by wearing the suit that really represents YOU!!!!

In working in the men’s clothing industry and as a keen observer I’ve noticed that some men’s suits don’t fit them properly.  You’ve got the “Big Barney” look, that is, a big man wearing a purple suit that is so loud that one can’t help but compare him to the character that kids love.  Then you have the brother that’s vertically challenged like Spike Lee wearing an 8-button double breasted suit that looks like it’s his little brother’s overcoat.  Then there’s the short, portly brother that looks like the “grape man” character in the “Fruit of the Loom” commercial with lumps everywhere due to the tightness of the suit.

In consideration of the fit of the suit, the ideal build is for one to be tall, with broad shoulders and a slim waist.  Now we know that’s not reality for most men but that’s the working model for the discussion for looking your best.  Therefore, whether you’re tall like Magic Johnson, short like Prince or portly like Cedric the Entertainer, there are some guidelines to be followed that will enable you to look your best.  By the way, I highly recommend that if you don’t have a personal tailor you consider getting one.  My tailor is a Man of Color, Robby Brookins.  He is the best in the business with many years of experience.  The name of the shop is Robby’s Quality Alterations and it’s in Wyoming.  He may be reached at 513-948-1277.

Please review consider the general guidelines that follow.

Tall and thin:

Do: wear 3-button single breasted suits;                               Do not: wear tight suits that
consider suits with shoulder pads to build                            accentuate your thin limbs
up the appearance of bulk in your shoulders

Big and tall:

Do: wear suit pants with cuffs, navy suits                                          Do not: wear suits with large patterns or                                                                                                                loud    

All About Suits Part II

There’s an old adage that states that “knowledge is power”.  In that I’m a firm believer in that, I thought it would be fitting to provide information to be considered when one wants to purchase a suit.  Previously, we looked at buying a suit according to one’s body type and the different types of suits. Let’s take to the next level and consider what goes into a quality suit.   

Suit Construction

The best suits are made by hand in terms of quality of construction and materials.  Therefore, the more a suit is made by hand the higher the quality.  There are a lot more places to have custom made suits made and if one can afford it that would be the best route to take.  Locally here in Cincinnati, Nobby Tailors has been making custom made suits for Men of Color for years.  They’re one of the best places to get custom tailored suits and they also carry a line shoes that can’t be found in other stores in and ‘Nati. 

Materials

All quality suits should be made of natural materials such as wool, linen, cotton, or silk.  Suits made from synthetic materials aren’t breathable and don’t allow for the body’s natural temperature to assist in a comfort level.  In other words, in the winter time they don’t provide warmth of the body and in the summer time there’s no cooling affect as the heat is retained.  Also, synthetic suits are stiff and don’t contour with the body so they don’t fit as well as a suit made from natural materials.  Synthetic suits are also harder to maintain as they don’t allow the body’s perspiration to evaporate, since they’re not breathable, and will result in the suit needing to be dry cleaned more often.   I remember the period of the ‘70s when we wore polyester suits.  Looking back on that it was the worst of times in terms of looking good.  The one thing I vividly recalled about the suits was that they came in any color one could imagine.   I had a pair of burgundy poly slacks and a burgundy and white poly “houndstooth” sport coat and I thought I had it “going on”.  Reflecting back to that period now I think I looked rather clownish! 

Buttonholes

[1]The finest quality suits have handmade buttonholes.  Handmade buttonholes are smooth on the outside and rough on the inside.  Machine made buttonholes will be smoother on both sides.  Most buttons are sewn on with cross-stitching and well finished with no threads hanging.  Also, in custom tailored suits the buttonholes on the sleeves allow one to unbutton them.   There is nothing worse than having a button pop off because it was incorrectly sewn onto the jacket.  Of course, that never happened to me!

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[1] The Handbook of Style, A Man’s Guide to Looking Good, From the Editors of Esquire Magazine, (New York: Hearst Books, 2009) page 42. 

Suit Seams

[2]Hand-sewn seams are composed of a single thread running through the fabric in a wavelike pattern.  When done properly, they are smooth and pucker-free and are more resilient to creasing and stretching than machined seams.  Machine-sewn seams are composed of two threads looped tightly around each other in a chainlike pattern.  They are sturdy, but the loops create puckers in the fabric, which can worsen over time as the fabric stretches. 

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[2]  The Handbook of Style, A Man’s Guide to Looking Good, From the Editors of Esquire Magazine, (New York: Hearst Books, 2009) page 43. 

Pockets

The flaps on the pocket should be consistent with the size of the lapels- neither too large nor too small.  Like the lapels, they should not draw attention to themselves.  In additions, their actual size should conform to that of the jacket.  Patch pockets are fine on sports jackets or sporty suits, but for a dressy suit, a flap pocket or jetted pocket is more appropriate.  The jetted pocket is the dressiest, which is why it is traditionally found on the tuxedo.  The flap pocket will put a touch more thickness on the hip, while the slit pocket gives a slimmer look.  Personally, I prefer jetted (besom) pockets on my suit coats which allows for a sleeker look.  Besom pockets typically are closed when the suit is purchased and I recommend leaving them sewn close. 

Lining

[3]An unlined suit is more expensive then a lined suit because the visible seams must be perfectly finished as there’s no room for error.  A partially lined suit jacket would be the best option because the pieces of viscose cloth sewn in strategic places would make it easy to slide the jacket on and off without compromising the cool fabric.  Inside every proper suit jacket, between the exterior cloth and the lining lies the secret of its shape; a layer of cloth called the canvas.  A bespoke suit or top-end ready-to-wear design features what’s known as a full-hand canvas, sewn in the jacket by hand, stitch by stitch, so that it echoes the curves of the chest, gives the lapel its roll, and, in a sense, determines the very integrity of the jacket.  Cheaper brands, however, use a process called fusing, in which a synthetic interlining is heated by machine until it adheres to the exterior fabric and provides the jacket with its rudimentary shape.  Until you’re caught in a rainstorm, that is, when the glue dissolves, leaving blisters in the chest and lapels.  Although fusing has long been deemed inferior to hand canvassing, this is no longer universally so.  Improvements in fusing technology have made it possible to create fused suits that fit better than some canvassed ones.  Never, however, offer this opinion to a tailor, unless be of robust constitution. 

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[3] The Handbook of Style, A Man’s Guide to Looking Good, From the Editors of Esquire Magazine, (New York: Hearst Books, 2009) page 42. 

Lapels

[4]Lapels have always been a reflection of the fashion of the moment, widening or shrinking in size to suit the taste of stores or individual designers.  This is unfortunate, since their size should never be a matter of whim but always a reflection of the jacket’s proportions.

The lapel of a well-styled suit should extend to just a fraction less than the halfway mark between collar and shoulder line.  In general, this size means a width of approximately 3.5 inches, thus honoring the main principle of classic tailoring, which is that no part, no detail, should violate the integrity of the whole.   I believe that one of the most important principals in regards to the lapels is to make sure that the tie coordinates with the lapels in terms of width.  Never match a wide lapel with a skinny tie and vice versa. 

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[4] Clothes and the Man, The Principles of Fine Men’s’ Dress, Alan Flusser, (New York: Villard Books, 1987) pages 32-33.