How to Select a Tailor
I appreciate the feedback and support that you, my readers, have given me. For this blog I’m going to address an issue that several of you have brought to my attention and that is how to select a tailor. You’ll want to select a good tailor as he/she can make a big difference in terms of how your clothes fit you. Whether the clothing is bespoke (tailored from scratch) or off the rack they can make a big difference in terms of your appearance. Also, please check out the videos of President Obama’s tailor, Ozwald Boateng. He was born in Great Britain but his parents are from the African country of Ghana. This brother, who has a shop on one of the most famous streets in Great Britain, Savile Row, also creates suits for a lot of celebrities. Savile Row is known in the fashion industry for having some of the greatest tailors in the world. I’ve also included videos entitled “How to Find a Local Tailor”, “The Fitting” and “Know your Size”. At the very bottom there's a video on a documenary on Mr. Boateng as well as a link in which Tall Guy interviews the first Black Male Superstar model Renauld White. By the way, whenever you go for a clothing fitting you would be wise to wear a dress shirt and the shoes that you plan to wear with the suit and/or slacks. Enjoy!
Tailoring for President Obama
Ozwald Boateng: Why Style Matters
How to Find a Local Tailor
Know Your Size
Please observe below a comprehensive list of things that need to be considered in choosing a tailor.
Education
I would suggest that before you select a tailor make sure you understand the appropriate fit of a suit, slacks, etc. That will allow you to be educated enough to have a meaningful conversation with potential tailors for hire. You should take the same due diligence approach as if you were making an investment in yourself because that really is what you’re doing. After all, people will judge you by your appearance and clothes that don’t fit properly may give off a negative vibe to observers. I’ve provided some illustrations below at the end of the categories that demonstrate how the fitting may take place.
Experience
In regards to experience don't be afraid to ask them about it. Did they provide tailoring services for a clothier and if so, for how long? Are they a Mom and Pop shop? I know of a gentleman that works at a men's clothier and although he states that he's a tailor it's my understanding he does very simple things such as sew buttons and hem slacks so it appears his experience is limited. You want to make sure the tailor can provide the services that you need as a customer. I once had the sleeves shortened on a sport coat and much to my surprise the buttons weren't moved accordingly. I was not happy but part of it was my fault because I didn't ask the tailor to move the buttons but rather I assumed she would. That's what I got for assuming she knew to relocate them on the sport coat!
Other questions to pose to potential tailors:
Can he/she hem pants with cuffs?
Shorten/lengthen suit coat sleeves? The preceding will require them to relocate the button holes on the suit jacket. By the way, it's been my observation that with a lot of customers one arm is longer than the other one.
Can they take in or let out the waist, seat or crotch of the pants?
Can he/she shorten the collar or lower the back of the suit jacket?
Can he/she let out or take in the sides of the suit jacket?
Can they properly reset the buttons on the suit jacket?
Can he/she replace the zipper?
Does he/she know a lot about fabrics and their properties, the drape of the cloth, cleaning methods?
As I stated above make sure they can provide the specific services you require as a customer.
Sample of Work
The tailor shop should have clothes that are waiting to be picked up by customers so they should be able to show you samples of their work. Don't hesitate to ask them to show you their finished alterations. Specifically, you should ask to see samples of the work that you'll require.
Referals
Word of mouth if the best testimony so by all means ask around. Check with people who look good in their clothes and they fit properly. The presuming assumes that you recognize proper fit. If you're uncertain please review my blog 'All about Suits' part III. You may also want to check with the Better Business Bureau to make sure there haven't been any problems.
Communication Skills
The best combination is a tailor that's knowledgeable and has good communication skills. You should seek a tailor that listens and understands your requirements without steering you to what they want for you. Does he/she take his/her time with you and make you feel comfortable, or is he/she in a hurry and lacks caring? Does the bill accurately depict the service to be rendered?
Classic or Trendy Tailoring
If the tailor has been providing services for a good number of years it's likely that they're familiar with classic tailoring but be weary of a Johnny-come-lately tailor as he/she may be one that prefers to provide services according to the lastest trends and therefore may not be experienced enough to complete the service according to your requirements.
Customer Service/Satisfaction
Since the tailor is in the service industry one would hope he/she would have good customer service skills. However, that isn't always the case. Howver, more than likely when you solicit potential tailors you'll be able to assess their customer service skills. It is also important to know what type of warranty the tailor will provide for services rendered. In the event the item doesn't fit right you need to know if the tailor will resolve the issue free of charge. A good tailor will gurantee their work meaning they will meet the customer's requirements.
Pricing
You should always check with each potential tailor to find out the prices they charge for the services to be performed. A good tailor will charge a competitive rate. If you find a tailor that charges a considerably lesser rate then the others then you need to be wary for something could be awry such as a lack of experience, lack of customers, etc. There has to be a reason for a less than competitive rate.
The Fitting
Shirt Sleeve Measurement
When measuring the sleeve length, make sure you start the tape just below the neck, centered with the spine. Make sure the tape measure goes over the top of the customer’s shoulder. Take the tape down the arm to the point of their elbow and then measure an inch and a half past the wrist bone. It is always better to measure long versus short because a sleeve that is too short will unacceptable.
Since the tailor is in the service industry hopefully he/she will have good customer service skills. Unfortunately, that isn't always the case. However, more than likely when you interview potential tailors for hire you'll be able to assess their customer service skills. Also, ask they if they gurantee their work.
Turnaround Time
Can they complete the work in accordance with your time requirments? Some tailors are so busy that the turnaround time is greater than 1 week. If that's acceptable to you then so be it but you need to ask them when will the service be completed. Furthermore, make sure the tailor indicates the completion date on the claim ticket.
Note: The Overarm measurement is primarily for tuxedo fittings.
The hip measurement is also primarily for tuxedo fittings.
The Outseam for Slacks
For the picture above on the left above, ask the gentleman to look straight ahead during this measurement. Place the start of the tape at the side of his waist level to the navel. Stretch the tape down the side of the leg until you reach the top of the heel on your customer’s shoe. This is the correct outseam measurement.
For the picture on the right, if the customer is not wearing dress shoes, have him remove the shoes and place the start of the tape at the customer’s waist level to his navel. Measure to the floor and record the number.
I hope you have a better understanding on what it takes to select a tailor. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.
Douglas
