Ties - Best Selling Father's Day Present

In that ties are the most popular present given for Father's Day, which is upcoming, and since my last posting was about dress shirts I thought it would be appropriate to discuss ties.  This is the one item of clothing in which you can express your individuality.  The tie can make or break an outfit as it can make a dull suit more appealing.  However, on the other hand, it can spoil the look of a nice suit.  Given the above I believe a well dressed man should definitely invest in quality ties. 

There is a local tie entrepreneur in suburban Cincinnati that has his own line of exceptional quality ties that are sold in over 300 retail stores in America.  The owner's name is Corwyn Thomas and he is the CEO of Corwyn Apparel.  His ties have been featured in GQ magazine as well as Oprah Winfrey's O magazine.  Please check out his line of ties at:

http://www.corwynapparel.com/

I've also captured Corwyn providing a "Tie Tying Demonstration" below.

Let's discuss the features of quality ties.  First of all, ties come in a variety of materials such as wool, cashmere, linen, silk and heaven forbid, polyester.  Ties made of wool and cashmere are primarily worn in the fall and winter.  By the way, you should never wear a polyester tie unless you really don't care at all about quality and your appearance.  (I will admit that I wore poly ties back in the '70s to go with my poly suits and I bet many of you wore them as well.  After all, it was the "in thing" back in the day!)  Since the majority of quality ties are comprised of silk that will be the focus of this posting. 

The Chinese were the first to master the art of producing silk dating back to the third century BC.  Today, silk is also produced in Korea, Japan, India, France and Italy.  The complexity of producing silk makes it relatively expensive.  It is regarded as a high quality material hence it is used in neckties and other garments. 

What makes a quality tie?  According to Bernhard Roetzel in his book "Gentlemen A Timeless Guide to Fashion" the most important quality of a good necktie cannot be pictorially illustrated.  It must feel good, so you should pick it up and feel it before you buy.  It is often suggested that you should crumple the silk to see if it creases.  However, if you do try this experiment do it carefully.  Other methods of testing a tie, such as pulling at certain threads, are not necessarily a good idea either, and anyway the results are not always conclusive.  Your instant tactile impression if the best guide.  If you like what you feel, you are probably right to go ahead and buy the necktie.  

In regards to the feel of the tie, according to Alan Flusser in his book "Clothes and the Man" if the silk (non-texured) is rough to the touch, then the silk is made of inferior quality.  Silk that is not supple is very much like hair that's been dyed too often.  It's brittle and its end will fray easily.  If care hasn't been taken in the inspection of ties, you may find misweaves and puckers.

All fine ties are cut on a bias, which means they have been cut across the fabric.  This allows them to fall straight after the knot has been tied, without curling. 

Quality neckties want you to see everything: they have nothing to hide.  Originally, neckties were cut from a single large square of silk, which was then folded seven times in order to give the tie a rich fullness.  Today the price of silk and the lack of skilled artisans prohibits this form of manufacture.  Ties now derive their body and fullness by means of an additional inner lining.

Besides giving body to tie, the lining helps the tie hold its shape.  The finest-quality ties today are lined with 100 percent wool and are generally made only in Europe.  Most other quality ties use a wool mixture.  The finer the tie, the higher the wool content.  You can actually check.  Fine linings are marked with a series of gold bars which are visible if you open up the back of the tie.  The more bars, the heavier the lining.  Many people assume that a quality tie must be thick, as this would suggest that the silk is heavy and therefore expensive.  In fact, in most cases it is simply the insertion of a heavier lining that gives the tie this bulk.  Be sure, then, that the bulk of the tie that you're feeling is the silk outer fabric and not the lining. 

After you've examined the lining, take a look at the tie just above the spot where the two sides come together to form an inverted V.  In most quality ties you will find a stitch joining the back flaps.  This is called the bar tack, and it helps maintain the shape of the tie. 

 

The proper width of a tie, and one that will never be out of style, is 3.25 inches (2.75 to 3.50 inches are also acceptable).  Standard neckties come in lengths from 52 to 58 inched long.  Taller men, or those who use a Windsor knot, may require a longer tie.  After being tied, the tip of the necktie should be long enough to reach the waistband of the trousers. 

In regards to the different brands of ties.  Personally, I like high quality ties and bow ties by Corwyn Apparel, Countess Mara, Joseph A. Banks, Michael Kors and Joseph Abboud, that are colorful with a variety of designs. 

Gucci Tie

Aliexpress Tie

Michael Kors Jumbo Dots Tie

Countess Mara Havana Texture Stripe Tie

Hugo Boss Tie

Robert Talbot Tie

Paul Smith Tie

Jose Villa Bow Tie

Barry Beaux Bow Ties

Lumina Clothing Company Bow Ties

How to Tie a Tie

I realize that people learn different ways so I've captured step-by-step hyperlink guides, courtesy of Brooks Brothers, to "tying a tie" below. 


WINDSOR KNOT

Falsely named after the Duke of Windsor, the Windsor Knot (also known as the full Windsor or double Windsor) is a wide triangular knot that is usually worn for formal occasions.  This type of knot looks best worn with a shirt collar that is considerably cutaway (spread collar).  By the way, I've seen some celebrities and sports figures with these knots and the knot is so thick that it reminds me of the knob of a baseball bat; straight-up ugly.  The other liability, in my humble opinion, is that the knot takes up so much of the length of the tie that it sometimes only goes half-way down the wearer's chest which I find to be extremely unattractive and borders on the ridiculous! 



HALF WINDSOR KNOT

If you're looking for something a little more assertive try the Half-Windsor knot.  A medium triangular knot that is worn more formal than the four-in-hand, it can be worn for any occasion (preferably with standard shirt collars) and works best with somewhat wider ties made from light to medium fabrics.

SMALL KNOT

The Small Knot, as the name implies, is small and is suitable for ties made from a thick fabric (woven silk, for example) and for close-fitting collars such as a tab collar shirt.  I know from experience that this knot works well with tab collar shirts. 

FOUR-IN-HAND

Also known as a simple knot, the Four-in-Hand is believed to be the most popular method of tying ties due to its simplicity.  The knot dates back to England in the days of the coach-in-four where the men driving the coach knotted their ties in this manner to help prevent them from flapping in the wind.  The knot produced by this method is on the narrow side, slightly asymmetric, an appropriate for all occasions.  It works best with wide ties made from heavy fabrics and should be worn with a shirt with a tab collar, button down or regular spread collar.  It's a classic knot for any occasion and is most widely used.  It's also my favorite method for tying my ties! 
[
BOW TIE

The origin of the bow tie dates back to the 17th century when Croatian mercenaries fought in support of Louis XIII against Cardinal Richelieu.  As the Croats walked the streets of Paris, their brightly colored scarves caught the attention of the court.  The upper class began wearing creatively ties versions of the scarves around their necks and the bow ties were born.  How many of you knew that?  I know I didn't!    I know some folks don't care for bow ties but I like them.  One of the most dapper Men of Color I've ever known, Eddie Stephens from New York, used to sport a bow tie to work withe his suits as a Chemical Engineer.  The brother was S-H-A-R-P!!!!!  He and his wife Ann-Marie are entrepreneurs and they've created a product that will help you control your food portions and hence, your weight in the battle against diabetes and obesity.  Check them out at:

Precise Portions

In regards to the above I know I digressed but that's what happens when you're in charge.  Plus they're good folks so please check them out.  We all know somebody that's battling obesity and/or diabetes. 

Just to close, ties provide a lot of variety for any occasion whether it's business, formal, job interview or for a night on the town.  It is up to you to show how you want to be perceived.  Do yourself a favor and make sure it's a quality tie for you won't regret it (unless you spill something on it).

Ties are very delicate so let me share a few things about there care.

1. When you are removing the tie just reverse the order you used to tie it.  I know that might sound obvious but stranger things have happened. 

2. You need to try very hard not to spill anything on the tie for it could be ruined.  I tuck my tie into my shirt just below the knot to protect it when I'm eating.  Some folks through it over their back.  I've never trusted the preceding. 

3. Make sure you either hang your tie vertically or roll them up and place them in a drawer. 

4. If you have to have the tie dry cleaned don't take it to just any cleaners.  You need to ask around for one that can handle ties. 

5. Lastly, there is a frame of thought that if you have to have the tie dry cleaned you might as well throw it away for it will never be the same. 

6. I recommend purchasing a tie case to store your ties in when you travel.  It's an excellent way to protect your ties.

I know you want to avoid #5 so take special care of your ties.  After all, it's your personal investment and it expresses YOU.

All About Shirts

Shirts come in all sorts of materials, colors, styles and patterns.  However, before I provide "news you can use" on the former, let me start out by proposing two thoughts regarding dress shirts that are, in my opinion, something to strongly consider:

1. There is no such thing as a short sleeve dress shirt.  That's an oxymoron! 

2. You can never have enough white dress shirts.

Anyone that considers themselves to be well dressed should stray away from short sleeve dress shirts for they will not viewed as being well dressed.  Please consider that there may come a time during the course of the day that you may have to remove your suit jacket or sport coat.  Now unless your intention is to look like a nerd there is a simple solution: only wear long sleeve dress shirts. 

White shirts are the most acceptable color for a business shirt in corporate America.  Also, there are some companies where the white shirt is the norm for a given companies' culture.  A major advantage is that you can wear most any color suit or sport coat with a white shirt.  Regarding the preceding, some other shirt colors may actually look better with a given suit and tie but a white shirt will look presentable in most cases. 

There are many different types of dress shirts in terms of materials, colors, styles, and patterns. 

The most popular material for dress shirts is cotton in which there are many variations as listed below. 

Dress Shirt Materials

Cotton Batiste - This is a light plain weave of fine, high quality yarns.  It is made of Egyptian Mako cotton and is also described as Swiss Batiste.

Poplin - This is the term for the fabric made using fine warp yarn with a thick filling.  The character is derived from the filling.

Oxford - This is a coarser type of weave in which dyed and undyed threads are combined together.  It make soft, but hard wearing shirts. 

Royal Oxford - This is a somewhat more refined version of the Oxford weave.  It is made the same as Oxford except with finer yards.  A shirt made of Royal Oxford feels silkier and much softer than the normal Oxford shirt.

Sea Island - This is the most expensive cotton.  It is woven from a greater number of threads than poplin with about 140 thread to the inch; poplin has 100 threads to the inch.  Stripes or checks in this material therefore have a clearer definition and deeper, stronger colors.  This material is so fine that is sometimes mistaken for cotton. 

Ribbed Twill - This has characteristic diagonal structure like that
familiar from the material used in chinos.  By the way, chinos is commonly referred to as khakis but the later is actually a color and not a pair of slacks.

Herringbone Twill - This is a close relative of ribbed twill.  Both kinds of materials are woven to form a diagonal structure.  In order to achieve the typical herringbone effect the direction of the diagonals is changed at intervals of a fifth of an inch (5 mm), which creates a zigzag pattern.

In consideration of corporate America in addition to white shirts the next group of shirts one should consider purchasing are light blue and light yellow.  Beyond the above, shirts come in a myriad of colors such as royal blue, grey, French blue, ecru, tan, cream, beige, lavender, pink, and black.  On a personal note I wear them all!  In terms of color coordination one has to be careful when mixing different color shirts with suits and sport coats.  For example, you wouldn't wear a black shirt with a brown suit. 

There are a couple of recent developments in dress shirts that offer improvements in the fit of the shirt and it's maintenance.  Some shirt manufacturers have developed a tailored fit (Joseph Banks) or slim fit (Brooks Brothers) shirt.  These shirts have the same neck and arm dimensions as standard dress shirts but they're narrower in the waist.  They promote a better, smoother look as the excess material in standard shirts makes a person look as though they're larger in the waist area.

Brooks Brothers Slim Fit Shirt

Another recent development are the Non-Iron (Brooks Brothers),  Wrinkle-Free (Joseph A.Bank, Claiborne, Hart, Schaffner and Marx), Wrinkle Resistant (John Ashford) dress shirts, respectively.  The shirts are machine washable and subsequently they made be placed in the dryer.  After they have dried they are to be removed immediately and hung up and they're supposed to not have any wrinkles.  These shirts are excellent for those that travel frequently. 

Another consideration is the type of collar of the shirts.  They come in a variety of collars such as the button-down, point, tab, pin, round and the spread collar. 

Collar Types



Button Down - The button-down collar was introduced in this country by Brooks Brothers.  It was patterned after the polo shirt worn in England.  The collar is fastened by the points by buttons to keep the collar down.  It is a soft roll collar and the best tie knots to be worn with them are the Windsor and the four-in-hand knots.  By the way, this is considered to be a conservative shirt and not to be worn with a double-breasted suit. 

Point - This is the most common dress shirt collar.  It can be worn with any suit style.  The lengths of the points have varied in length over the years but the collar points should be 2 5/8" to 2 7/8" to balance the classic jacket lapel of 3 1/2" and the tie width of 3 1/4".  This collar style is suitable for all tie knots except the full Windsor.  Men with a round face would look best with a point collar. 

Tab - The tab holds the neck tie in place by utilizing tabs attached to the collar and held together under the knot of the necktie.  The tab comes with a snap button, plastic tab or a smaller button similar to the shirt buttons.  Best worn with a small knot.

Pin - The collar tips are connected by a pin of some description.  The pin supports and lifts the necktie knot.  The type of collar is not to be worn without a tie.  Best worn with a small knot.

Round - The collar is rounded as opposed to pointed like the other collar styles.  This collar complements a very dressy suit.  This collar should not be worn by a man with a round face since it would accentuates the circularity of the wearer.

Spread - This collar has a wide spread between the collar points and hence the name spread collar.  Ties that are bulky and/or wide knots are best for this type of collar.  This is considered to be the most elegant collar and especially with French Cuffs for cuff links.  Men with a narrow face with look best with a spread collar. 

Cuff Types

There are two primary types of cuffs: barrel (button)  and the French (double) cuff.  The barrel cuff is the most common and comes in a variety such as single-button, double-button and the two-button turn back.  The French cuff is the dressiest an is also found in formal shirts.  By the way, some folks sport French cuff shirts without cuff links but in my opinion one should always wear cuff links.  

Shirt Patterns

In addition to solid colors, shirts come in a wide range of patterns such as pin stripes, mini-checks, window pane, glen-plaid, checkered, and woven.  There are also shirts in which the collar is a different color than the body of the shirt.  When you're trying to coordinate your outfit make sure that the clothing flows and doesn't compete for attention.  For example, you don't want to wear a bold striped shirt with a bold striped tie.  You would be wise to wear a muted striped tie with a bold striped shirt or vice versa. 

These are exciting times in terms of recent developments in shirts and with so many variations in patterns, colors and styles one can showcase his own individuality! 

All About Shoes Part II

Previously, I'd talked about one of the first considerations in purchasing shoes and that's how to care for them.  The next logical step is to consider which shoes you need to have in your wardrobe.  I believe one should have specific shoes for different occasions; business, casual, etc,.  Also, for those that have expendable cash you may want to consider having your shoes custom made. 

I've heard that there is nothing like having a pair of shoes made specifically for your feet.  You may not be aware of this but for most of us one foot is actually longer than the other one.  Granted, it may be so slight that you wouldn't notice it but it's true for most of us just the same.  However, unless you live in a major city such as New York or London, be prepared to travel to meet with the shoemaker in his shop or a swank hotel such as the Carlyle in New York City, where custom tailors and shoemakers often set up fitting rooms over several days, once or twice a year.  Custom shoe maker John Lobb, for example, lists an extensive worldwide travel schedule to meet with clients.  Therefore, the Internet is your first point of contact.  I've listed the link for John Lobb below in case you're interested.

John Lobb

The process of making shoes is also very interesting. I've included a link that demonstrates that below.

How a Pair of Louis Vuitton Mens Dress Shoes are made

Lets start by considering shoes for business.  Shoes that have laces look best with suits of which there are:

Cap toes

Wing-tips

 

Split toes

Every man should have at least 2 pair of business shoes in black and brown, respectively.  It's acceptable to wear a pair of brown shoes with a navy suit but not with a black suit and some shades of gray suits.  You can also wear cordovan/burgundy shoes with black, navy and gray suits but never with brown suits.  Also, you should never wear brown shoes with a black suit. 

In regards to casual shoes the shoes below will look good with your sport coats, blazers, polo shirts, jeans, chinos (some refer to these as khakis but that's actually a color), etc.  The same color coordination should also be considered with your casual shoes.  Of course, since the shoes are casual there will be many more colors available.

Penny loafers

Tassel loafers

Monk strap

Driving shoes

There are many more varieties of casual shoes from which to choose from and this is just a small sampling.  By the way, here are a few more things to consider:

I can't emphasize enough that's it's best to have your shoes shined and you may also want to consider adding heel and toe taps and sole savers before you wear them.  For those of you in Cincinnati I recommend Clarence Howell Shoe Repair at www.clarencehowellshoerepair.com

Due to the swelling of the feet during the day, it's best to purchase shoes after 2 pm.

Never wear the same pair of shoes two days in a row.  The shoes need to air out and breathe.

Don't forget to place cedar shoe trees in your shoes to maintain their shape.  

Don't purchase cheap shoes!  Just consider the amount of time you spend on your feet during the day.

Happy feet! 





All About Shoes Part I

 

It's been said that one of the first things a lady observes about a man is the shoes that he's wearing including whether they're shined, run over, cheap looking, etc.  If you don't believe me check out one lady's comments on the link below:

How to Tell a Man by his Shoes

 Therefore, it would behoove any man to take that into consideration when he’s shopping for shoes. Now, while I’m not suggesting that should be the main reason in choosing shoes that’s something that, as Arsenio Hall would have stated it, “things that make you go hmmm…”  Of course, there are other reasons such as occupation, quality, comfort and style. However, one of the main things that needs to be considered is the maintenance of the shoes. For example, leather shoes need to be treated differently than suede shoes. Therefore, the first part of this series on shoes will cover their care and maintenance.

In terms of shoe maintenance I thought it would be wise to speak with someone that's very knowledgeable in this area.  Therefore, I interviewed an expert in shoe maintenance and repair, Mr. Clarence Howell.  In my opinion he's the best in the business and the owner of Clarence Howell Shoe Repair.  He’s been in the business since 1976. 

Question:  What makes a good quality shoe?  The shoe should be made of a good quality leather both the top and bottom.  You should purchase name brand shoes such as Cole Haan, Johnston Murphy, Bostonian, Alan Edmonds and Florsheim Imperial. 

Question:  After you purchase a pair of shoes do you wear them right away?  First thing that should happen is to apply shoe

cream and paste to the shoes, in that order, much the same as you would put wax on a car after purchasing it to protect it from the weather. 

Question: Do leather conditioning products for shoes really work?     Yes, but you should know how to apply the products to protect the shoes. 

Question:  What type of care should the owners of new shoes impart to take care of them?   Keep them clean, as much as possible, and polished.

Question: Are there any products available that will minimize the leather sole from wearing out on the shoes? 

Yes.  It’s called a Sole Saver.  You will never have to replace the soles.  It will last for years.  

Mr. Howell I thank you for sharing your knowledge to my readers as well as the advice and services that you’ve given me over the years. 

Mr. Howell’s shop is located at 6089 Montgomery road in the Cincinnati neighborhood of Pleasant Ridge.  The phone number is 513-531-7463.  He also has a website:

Clarence Shoe Repair

I've been caring for my shoes since I was in elementary school.  My father taught me how to shine shoes and care for them.  Here are some things to consider in addition to what's been cited by Mr. Howell:

1.   Never wear leather shoes two days in a row.  Leather needs to air out and breathe.

2.   Subsequent to wearing the shoes take the time to wipe the dust off with a rag or soft paper tissue.

3.   Place cedar shoe trees in the shoes for storage.  They will help them maintain their shape and remove moisture.

4.   Shoes should be shined as needed.  Make sure you have the appropriate shoe crèmes and paste to keep them shined as much as possible.  You want to match the color of the above as close as possible to the color of the shoes.  In addition to the shoe crème and polish make sure you have a good quality shoe brush, made of horsehair, and  rags which could consist of old t-shirts.

5.   Prior to shining the shoes make sure they’re cleaned as you don’t want to apply polish to a dirty shoe just like you wouldn’t apply wax to a dirty car.

6.   In inclement weather wear shoe rubbers to protect them from the elements.  In the event you get caught wearing them in bad weather remove them as soon as possible and place newspaper in them to help them dry out. 

7.   Suede, Nubuck and Patent Leather shoes require special products designed specifically for them. 

Let’s take a look at the results from not taking care of your shoes.

Hole-in-One

Before and After

Thinning Out! 

Botox won’t Help!!!

These shoes were made for walking!

President Barack Obama was on the campaign trail in 2008.  Obviously, he did a lot of walking and he didn’t have the time to get his shoes cared for.

I hope that I’ve shed some light on how to care for your dress shoes.  Remember that the first impression is a lasting one. 

NOTE:  All photos were courtesy of Goggle Images. 

How to Select a Tailor

I appreciate the feedback and support that you, my readers, have given me.  For this blog I’m going to address an issue that several of you have brought to my attention and that is how to select a tailor.  You’ll want to select a good tailor as he/she can make a big difference in terms of how your clothes fit you.  Whether the clothing is bespoke (tailored from scratch) or off the rack they can make a big difference in terms of your appearance.  Also, please check out the videos of President Obama’s tailor, Ozwald Boateng.  He was born in Great Britain but his parents are from the African country of Ghana.  This brother, who has a shop on one of the most famous streets in Great Britain, Savile Row, also creates suits for a lot of celebrities.  Savile Row is known in the fashion industry for having some of the greatest tailors in the world.     I’ve also included videos entitled “How to Find a Local Tailor”, “The Fitting” and “Know your Size”.  At the very bottom there's a video on a documenary on Mr. Boateng as well as a link in which Tall Guy interviews the first Black Male Superstar model Renauld White.  By the way, whenever you go for a clothing fitting you would be wise to wear a dress shirt and the shoes that you plan to wear with the suit and/or slacks.  Enjoy! 

Tailoring for President Obama

Ozwald Boateng: Why Style Matters

How to Find a Local Tailor
 

Know Your Size
 

Please observe below a comprehensive list of things that need to be considered in choosing a tailor.

Education

I would suggest that before you select a tailor make sure you understand the appropriate fit of a suit, slacks, etc.  That will allow you to be educated enough to have a meaningful conversation with potential tailors for hire.  You should take the same due diligence approach as if you were making an investment in yourself because that really is what you’re doing.  After all, people will judge you by your appearance and clothes that don’t fit properly may give off a negative vibe to observers.  I’ve provided some illustrations below at the end of the categories that demonstrate how the fitting may take place. 

Experience

In regards to experience don't be afraid to ask them about it.  Did they provide tailoring services for a clothier and if so, for how long?  Are they a Mom and Pop shop?  I know of a gentleman that works at a men's clothier and although he states that he's a tailor it's my understanding he does very simple things such as sew buttons and hem slacks so it appears his experience is limited.  You want to make sure the tailor can provide the services that you need as a customer.  I once had the sleeves shortened on a sport coat and much to my surprise the buttons weren't moved accordingly.  I was not happy but part of it was my fault because I didn't ask the tailor to move the buttons but rather I assumed she would.  That's what I got for assuming she knew to relocate them on the sport coat!  

Other questions to pose to potential tailors:  

Can he/she hem pants with cuffs?

Shorten/lengthen suit coat sleeves?  The preceding will require them to relocate the button holes on the suit jacket.  By the way, it's been my observation that with a lot of customers one arm is longer than the other one. 

Can they take in or let out the waist, seat or crotch of the pants?

Can he/she shorten the collar or lower the back of the suit jacket?

Can he/she let out or take in the sides of the suit jacket?

Can they properly reset the buttons on the suit jacket?

Can he/she replace the zipper?

Does he/she know a lot about fabrics and their properties, the drape of the cloth, cleaning methods? 

As I stated above make sure they can provide the specific services you require as a customer.

Sample of Work



The tailor shop should have clothes that are waiting to be picked up by customers so they should be able to show you samples of their work.  Don't hesitate to ask them to show you their finished alterations.  Specifically, you should ask to see samples of the work that you'll require.



Referals



Word of mouth if the best testimony so by all means ask around.  Check with people who look good in their clothes and they fit properly.  The presuming assumes that you recognize proper fit. If you're uncertain please review my blog 'All about Suits' part III.  You may also want to check with the Better Business Bureau to make sure there haven't been any problems. 

Communication Skills

The best combination is a tailor that's knowledgeable and has good communication skills.   You should seek a tailor that listens and understands your requirements without steering you to what they want for you.  Does he/she take his/her time with you and make you feel comfortable, or is he/she in a hurry and lacks caring?  Does the bill accurately depict the service to be rendered? 

Classic or Trendy Tailoring

If the tailor has been providing services for a good number of years it's likely that they're familiar with classic tailoring but be weary of a Johnny-come-lately tailor as he/she may be one that prefers to provide services according to the lastest trends and therefore may not be experienced enough to complete the service according to your requirements.  

Customer Service/Satisfaction

Since the tailor is in the service industry one would hope he/she would have good customer service skills.  However, that isn't always the case.  Howver, more than likely when you solicit potential tailors you'll be able to assess their customer service skills. It is also important to know what type of warranty the tailor will provide for services rendered.  In the event the item doesn't fit right you need to know if the tailor will resolve the issue free of charge.  A good tailor will gurantee their work meaning they will meet the customer's requirements.  

Pricing

You should always check with each potential tailor to find out the prices they charge for the services to be performed.  A good tailor will charge a competitive rate.  If you find a tailor that charges a considerably lesser rate then the others then you need to be wary for something could be awry such as a lack of experience, lack of customers, etc.  There has to be a reason for a less than competitive rate. 

The Fitting

Shirt Sleeve Measurement

When measuring the sleeve length, make sure you start the tape just below the neck, centered with the spine.  Make sure the tape measure goes over the top of the customer’s shoulder.  Take the tape down the arm to the point of their elbow and then measure an inch and a half past the wrist bone.  It is always better to measure long versus short because a sleeve that is too short will unacceptable. 

Since the tailor is in the service industry hopefully he/she will have good customer service skills.  Unfortunately, that isn't always the case.  However, more than likely when you interview potential tailors for hire you'll be able to assess their customer service skills.  Also, ask they if they gurantee their work.
 

 Turnaround Time

Can they complete the work in accordance with your time requirments?  Some tailors are so busy that the turnaround time is greater than 1 week.  If that's acceptable to you then so be it but you need to ask them when will the service be completed.  Furthermore, make sure the tailor indicates the completion date on the claim ticket.

Note: The Overarm measurement is primarily for tuxedo fittings.

The hip measurement is also primarily for tuxedo fittings.

The Outseam for Slacks

For the picture above on the left above, ask the gentleman to look straight ahead during this measurement.  Place the start of the tape at the side of his waist level to the navel.  Stretch the tape down the side of the leg until you reach the top of the heel on your customer’s shoe.  This is the correct outseam measurement. 

For the picture on the right, if the customer is not wearing dress shoes, have him remove the shoes and place the start of the tape at the customer’s waist level to his navel.  Measure to the floor and record the number. 

'A Man's Story' Preview - Ozwald Boateng documentary film

Renauld White Interview with Tall Guide

I hope you have a better understanding on what it takes to select a tailor.  If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.

Douglas