Where's your hat?

"It's cold out there so don't you go outside without a hat"!  That's something that my parents demanded of me.  Back in the day, they believed that your outfit wasn't complete without a hat or cap, not a baseball cap, to compliment your clothes and especially a nice suit and topcoat.   Not to mention that the hat provided protection from the elements.  My father and older brothers were very stylish in their hats and I'll bet your older male family members were as well.  Nowadays, it seems that wearing a hat is an exception today but once upon a time it was quite common.   

Superman Paul Robeson Sports a Homburg and his 

Son is wore an Apple Jack Cap

Gentleman Sports a Bowler Hat in the 1930s

Brother is Sharp from Head-to-Toe

Best Dressed Couple

Harlem Residents during World War II

As you can see not only did our parents and grandparents wore hats but the kids were also "decked out" in them.  

Well Dressed Little Boy

Author Richard Wright Sports a Fedora in the '40s

 

Young Martin Luther King in the '50s

Dapper Young Man with a Fedora

Dizz Sporting his Trademark Beret

Newsboy Cap

Brother with Wide Brim Fedora with his Lady in the '70s

 Trouble Man Marvin Gaye Sports a Kufi

Billy Dee Williams Sports Fedora in Lady Sings the Blues

Fedora Wearing Brothers 
Double-Date in the '70s

Hip Hop Brothers Sport Kangol Berets

Miles Davis Sports a Fedora from the Album Cover Decoy

Sean John Sports a Homburg

 

Super Model Renauld White in 

Homburg and Beret

Terrance Howard in Straw Fedora with

Phylicia Rashad and Anika Noni Rose

Mario Van Peeples in the Panama Straw Hat

  

It's been stated by many in the fashion industry that the decline in wearing hats was partly attributed to the election of John F. Kennedy as the president in 1960.  He was seen in public lots of time without a hat including his inauguration.  However, if you saw pictures of the presidents that preceded him, Dwight Eisenhower and Harry Truman, they typically wore nice hats to complement their suits.  There may have been some truth to that but there were other factors as well.  For one thing, more folks became car owners in the '60s and going forward, which provided protection from the elements.  Naturally, people were out more in the elements before becoming car owners.  Another possibility is that the decline of men wearing hats corresponds, excluding Sundays, to the decline of women wearing hats.  I can recall that my mother and aunts wore  hats and scarves back in the day and I don't mean on Sundays; that  was a given.  Finally, some men go to hair stylists and don't want to chance messing up their hair. 

What are your thoughts?  As for me, I believe a man adds the "it factor" when they top off their attire with a nice hat or cap.  Think of it as "icing on the cake".  
 
By the way, since spring is upon us now is a good time to negotiate the purchase of a winter hat/cap.  

Photo Credits

Men of Color, Fashion, History and Fundamentals by Lloyd Boston 
Paul Robeson page157, Gentleman in the Bowler Hat 226

Best Dressed Couple 86, Harlem Residents 6, Well Dressed 

Little Boy 43, Young Martin Luther King 21, Dapper Young Man 154

Dizzy Gillespie 29, Brother with the Wide Brim Fedora 14

Marvin Gaye 53, Fedora Wearing Brothers 23, 

Hip Hop Brothers 155, Sean John 172, Renauld White 232, 

Black America: A Photographic Journey Past to Present by Marcia Smith
Brother Sharp Head-to-Toe 191, Richard Wright 396

Movie: Lady Sings the Blues, Billy Dee Williams

Miles Davis Album Cover: Decoy 

Walter McBride/Retna LTD:
Photo of Terrance Howard at Sardi's Restaraunt in New York City on May 8, 2008

Lee Roth/Roth Stock/PR Photos
Marion Van Peeples @ Lakawana Blues Feature Debut (HBO films) on February 3, 2005

  

When the Rain Comes Down

Autumn is the time of the year when the leaves change to exhibit beautiful colors but we also get an appreciable amount of rain.  Since you've invested in your wardrobe I know you want to protect them from the elements and one of the ways to do that is by wearing a raincoat.

Most Famous Television Trench Coat worn by Peter Falk as Detective Columbo

 

 

It seemed that Detective Columbo (1970s) always had his raincoat with him for protection; he may have also had a gun under his coat for another form of protection.  (Image by Douglas Kirkland/CORBIS)

 

Raincoats have been around since the 13th century and have been made from various materials over the years including rubber, wool, cotton, vinyl, plastic, gabardine, nylon, Gor-Tex, microfiber and raglan.

There are many types of raincoats such as trench coats, anoraks, ponchos, cagoules, pacamacs and rain slickers.   One has to consider the circumstances for wearing a raincoat whether it's to  the office, hiking, sporting event, etc.   For the purpose of this posting we will take a look at a raincoat for a well dressed man which is a trench coat.  The main material in a raincoat is fabric which has been specially treated to repel water.  The fabric of many raincoats consist of a blend of cotton, polyester, nylon and/or rayon.   They made also be made from wool, wool gabardine, vinyl, leather, micro fibers and high tech fabrics.

 

Joseph & Feiss Trench Coat

 



Many stylish men consider the Burberry trench coat to be the ultimate.  Thomas Burberry of Great Britain created the first all weather rain repellent coat for the militaryduring World War I.  The coat was made of a yarn-dyed fine twill cotton gabardine.  The gabardine was chemically treated to repel rain.  Although the coats were first made for soldiers, after the war in 1918, they spread in popularity.  The rest, as they say, is history.

 

 

The Classic Burberry Trench Coat

 

 

 

There are other clothiers that make nice trench coats such as London Fog, Calvin Klein, Canali, Landsend, Brooks Brothers, Joseph A Bank, and many others.

 

 

Canali Microfiber Hidden Buttons Trench Coat

 



 

In regards to purchasing a trenchcoat you need to consider the climate, color, single or double breasted style and length.  If you live in a warm climate you may want to get a light weight coat.  Otherwise, if you live in a cold environment you should consider getting a coat with a nice zip-out lining.  Since the coats can provide warmth some men choose to wear their trench coats during the winter season.  Trench coats range in color from white to black with tan being the most popular.  It's a matter of preference whether to get single or double-breasted.  The latter will have extra material the same as a similarly made suit.  The length is a matter of personal choice as they range from car-coat length to full-length just above the ankles.  (Car coats were originally designed for driving and they're mid-thigh length.)

 

Calvin Klein Car Coat Length Trench Coat

 



 

 

The parts of a Trench Coat consist of the collar, storm patch, buttons, lapels, belt (some are belt-less), belt loops, flap pocket, and sleeve loop.  The storm patch imitates the military style which originally had a functional purpose but now it just for asthetics.    The sleeve loop allows you to tighten or loosen the sleeves.  The flap pocket protects the contents in the pocket.  
 

 

Parts of a Trench Coat by Made by Letty.com

 



 

 

The Trench Coat is the most stylish and practical way to protect your clothing investment.  There are many makes, styles and colors to choose from so it's a great opportunity for you to create your own personal style.  By the way, don't forget your umbrella and your shoe covers such as Totes to protect those nice shoes!  

 

Now for a song that talks about, believe or not, going outside in the rain!  This is Boney James featuring Dwele "In the Rain".

 



 

 

 

Thanks for viewing this posting.

God Bless!

 

Douglas Prather



Dress for the Occasion: The Job Interview

Lately, I've received questions regarding the appropriate attire to wear for a job interview.  Now for those that may not fully understand. before I discuss clothing I need to set it up by stating that the purpose of a job interview is to have a formal exchange of information between an employer and a prospective employee with the ultimate goal of the latter receiving a job offer.  

 

When the employer's representative meets the prospective employee it's likely that his first interaction will be visual.  Therefore, I can't stress how important it is for the prospect to make a great first impression.  As the saying goes you only get to make a good first impression one time.  You want the interviewer to see you as one that will look the part even before you start to engage in conversation. 

 

There are hundreds of different occupations and for each one you need to dress appropriate for the specific job.  It's likely that a banker will dress differently than an artist.  Therefore, for the position you're interested in I'd suggest you do research and  network to find out the appropriate attire for the job and company. 

 

As I mentioned above there are literally hundreds of different occupations but for the purpose of my post I'll present the proper attire for corporate America.  Today, many corporations have gone business casual but in order to dress in that manner you first have to get the job so you still need to dress appropriately for the interview.

In consideration of the person you'll be interviewing with, more than likely that person will be stranger to you so you need to dress in a conservative manner.  There are some basic clothing items to consider: 

Brooks Brother Navy Single Breast Suit

Ralph Lauren Charcoal Gray Single Breast Suit

 

Solid White Point Collar Shirt

 

 

 

Gucci Gray Silk Tie

 

 

 

 

Calvin Klein Navy Silk Tie

 

 

 

 

 

 

Black Cap Toe Shoes 

 

 

 

 

 

Black Wing Tip Shoes

 

By the way, if you're on a tight budget you should consider shopping at a thrift store as you can find some excellent, clean reasonably priced clothing. 

 

Just to summarize:

 

There's an old saying, "When in Rome, Do as the Romans do"!  I'm going to borrow from that "When in Rome, Dress as the Romans dress"!

 

Do wear a Navy or Charcoal Gray Suit Single Breasted Suit.

Don't wear the new Slim Fit Suit.  (The suit jacket is a couple of inches shorter in the body of the jacket).

 

 

Do wear a long sleeve white shirt with a point collar and barrel cuffs.  (Short sleeves shirts aren't considered to be professional).

Don't wear a patterned or striped shirt with French cuffs (for cuff links).

 

 

Do wear a Navy or Gray solid or small patterned tie.

Don't wear a Red or brightly colored tie.  The Red tie is considered by some to connote power.  At this point, you don't have any relative to the job in which you're interviewing.  Again, you don't want any distractions and the tie could send you down the wrong path meaning you set the wrong tone for the interview.

 

 

Do make sure your black cap toe or wing tip shoes are in good condition and shined.

Don't wear any other color shoes. 

 

 

Do make sure the color of your socks match the color of your pants or shoes.

Don't wear ankle or crew socks such that your skin may show. 

  

 

Do make sure you're well groomed for your interview.

Don't overdose on the cologne and you should consider not applying any as it may prove to be a distraction. You want the focus of the interview to be on you and not how you look or smell.

 

Lastly:

Do go to the interview confident you're going to get that job.

Don't fail to do the research necessary to learn about the company and the position.

 

BEST WISHES ON THE INTERVIEW!!!!

 

 

 

Is it okay to wear white After Labor Day?

It's that time of year when folks wear their white  clothing one last time before the arrival of Labor Day for they dare not wear them afterwards!  The question arises as to whether it is now acceptable to wear white after the holiday.  I say it's absolutely, positively acceptable!  Now, there was a time when I would have agreed to the unwritten rule of not wearing white after Labor Day but that day has come and gone.  As they say, "rules are made to be broken" and this is definitely one that needs to be laid to rest.

You may ponder why there was a rule to begin so we'll explore that but first my inspiration for this posting:

 

 

Young Roger Prather Sr.

 

 

Elder Roger Prather Sr.

 

My deceased father was my first role model in terms of style, grace and class.  As you can see above as a 25 year old young man dressed in white hat and suit and as an 80 year old man he always looked exceptional in white with his big handsome smile, with pearly white teeth, and his coordinated dapper attire.  My father was a hardworking blue collar Christian man.  Now you may wonder what that has to do with wearing white.  Well, typically in years gone by the majority of men that wore white were the wealthy as that was considered to be somewhat of a status symbol.  Since it was primarily the preceding that wore white they also created the unwritten rule of when it was appropriate to wear white.  Obviously, that has changed as folks from all economic levels wear white.    Let's take a look at some others that look good in white.

D-Wade

 

Idris Elba

 

 

Alfred Edmondson Jr.*

 

 Sean Combs

 

The Notorious B.I.G. 

 

Sports celebrities, entertainers, and even editors of magazines and the like know they look good in white as this light neutral color blends well with the skin tone of Men of Color.  The color white reflects light as opposed to darker colors which absorb light.  That's one of the reasons it's more comfortable in the summer.  The materials, which consists of cotton, linen and wool are also more light weight.   The preceding is another reason why folks wear white primarily during the summer time.  However, in that the temperature in September is typically very warm I think it would be more acceptable now to wear white after Labor Day. 

*Alfred Edmondson Jr. is the Senior Vice President editor-at-large of Black Enterprise magazine.

 

 

Wynton Marsalis

 

Brother sporting an Eastern look 

 



 

Young Lawrence Fishburne

 



 Ron O'Neal as SuperFly
 

 

 

 Billy Dee Williams
 

 

 

 

The last reason that folks wear white in warmer weather is because as fall approaches towards winter, the streets become soiled due to the changes in the climate with rain and muddy conditions.  Therefore the clothing becomes more difficult to keep clean.  Who wants to go to the office and a white suit that got soiled on the way to work?  Even before I conducted the research I had my own personal rule to wear darker clothing if I learned rain was impending for this very reason. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Young Michael Jackson

 

 

 

Ray Charles

 

 

 

 Cab Calloway

 

 

 

 

Hopefully, you'll feel confident if you choose to wear white after the Labor Day Holiday.  If you choose not to then that's okay to as it's a matter of personal preference.

 

 





Pants: Flat or Pleated?

Do you prefer Flat or Pleated pants?  In other words, do you prefer a plain or classic style of pants?  It is my opinion that pleated pants are much better looking than flat front pants!  After all, another word for flat front is plain front so I'll use them interchangeably.  Whereas there are box pleated, single reverse pleated and double reverse pleated pants, there are little to no variations in flat front pants. They're all pretty much the same flavor, "plain vanilla"! Enough said!  That is just my opinion and not shared by all.    Having stated the above flat front pants do look good on some men.  Let's take a look at some icons in plain front pants:

Sammy Davis Jr.

Marvin Gaye

Richard Roundtree as "John Shaft"

Drake and Ne-Yo

It's no coincidence that the flat front pants look good on those brothers because they have the proper build which is somewhat slim.  I'm not saying that only men with slim builds can wear flat front pants.  They just look better on them because the pants have less material when compared to a pleated pair of slacks.  Otherwise, slim build men can also wear pants with pleats but they may not look as polished as they would with flat front pants for the reasons cited above.

In consideration of pants with pleats:

Bill Cosby

Supermodel Tyson

Cedric the Entertainer

Men with meat-on-the-bones look better in pants with pleats.  The extra room of the pants accomodate the man not only in terms of fit but also comfort. 

PANT STYLES

Flat - Reverse Single Pleat - Flat Western Pocket

Single - Double - Inverted Box Pleat

Tips

For durability and comfort quality dress pants should have a lining through the crotch that falls just above the knees.  

The pleats of the pants should lay flat when you're standing.  If they're open then the pants are too small. 

For durability and comfort quality dress pants should have a lining through the crotch that falls just above the knees.  

Pleated pants look better with cuffs.  The cuffs add weight to the bottom of the pants and enable the pleats to flow linearly.

The cuff should be no more than a maximum of 2 inches wide.  Cuffs vary in width from 1.25" to 2.0". 

There is a thought that men that are vertically challenged should not wear cuffs.  However, cuffs are a classy look and I'm of the opinion that the height of the man should not matter.  Having stated the preceding I do believe that the shorter the man the shorter the width of the cuff should be in consideration of the above widths.

Regardless to whether you're wearing flat or pleated pants please make sure the color of your socks match the color of your pants.  If you can't match the two exactly the pants should be darker than the socks.  Otherwise, unless you don't mind imitating Micheal Jackson you will draw undue attention to your socks.  I'm presuming those are not your intentions. 

Per the above the second option would be to match the color of the socks with the color of the shoes.  Again, the color of the socks should not be lighter than the color of the shoes.

The pants should have a slight break on top of the shoes to ensure that the pants aren't too high.  You don't want folks to think that you're a clam digger! 

Pants without cuffs should be slightly longer at the back of the bottom of the pants.

Never, never, never, never, never wear braces (suspenders) with a belt.  Did I say that enough times?  By the way, braces typically have leather endings and attach to the (six) buttons on the inside of the waist band of the pants.  Suspenders are typically metal and they attach to the exterior of the waistband.  The exceptionally well dress man wears braces as opposed to suspenders.


The bottom line is whether the pants are plain or pleated they should be made of quality material and fit properly.   There is nothing like cheap looking and/or ill fitting pants! 

All About Handkerchiefs and Pocket Squares: Let it Flow!

I've covered some, but not all, of the major clothing items but this time I'd like to talk about something that I lot of men don't consider, handkerchiefs and pocket squares.  For me, you're not completely dressed without having a handkerchief and a pocket square.

In regards to the handkerchief I'm specifically referring to a white one made of cotton.  The plain white ones are easy to care for and readily available for purchase.  Here are the primary reasons (in no specific order) why you should always have one in your suit coat/sport coat:

1. Wipe your brow when you perspire.

2. Pass the clean, unused handkerchief it to a lady when she's in need.  By the way, in terms of proper etiquette, you shouldn't ask for it back.

3. Blow your nose.  (I would only do this if there was no tissue near by)

4. Wipe your mouth if you don't have a napkin.

5. Cover your mouth when you cough as opposed to your hand. 

6. Wipe your hands.

7. Clean your glasses.

By the way, relative to the above you should never use a pocket square in lieu of a handkerchief.  Also, you should own enough handkerchiefs to carry a fresh one each day.  

In regards to pocket squares you can wear the best coordinated suit, shirt and tie but without that coordinated pocket square in that breast pocket you've fallen short of achieving that "smooth, impeccable look".  Don't get me wrong, if you have the clothing I mentioned above you will still look nice but you need that pocket square to take it to the next level.  Speaking of smooth, right about now I'd like to introduce you to the smooth song below "Let it Flow (For Dr. J)" by the late, great Grover Washington Jr.  It was his tribute to Dr. J.  Now you may ask yourself why I've chosen to insert something that has nothing to do with the subject matter.  On the contrary, when you've got that coordinated pocket square with that nice suit, shirt and tie you will look SMOOTH!!!!

Smooth Jazz - Grover Washington Jr. Let if Flow (For Dr. J.)

Pocket squares come in many colors and patterns and are made of polyester, woven microfiber, cashmere, cotton, linen and silk.  I'm not going to cover polyester and microfiber pocket squares other than to say don't buy any made out of these materials.  Go with the natural materials.  The best pocket squares are hand sewn whether they're cotton, linen or silk.

The primary benefit of cotton, cashmere and linen pocket squares is that they don't slip down in the pocket as readily as one made of silk.  However, one of the tricks I employ is add a folded 3" by 5" index card to the breast pocket to counteract the pocket squares tendency to slip down in the pocket. 

You can also have cotton and linen pocket squares monogrammed.  However, if you choose to have it monogrammed make sure it isn't visible as that's improper etiquette.  Also, you may notice that most pocket squares are made primarily of silk the same way as neck ties.  Coincidence?  I don't think so!  

The main consideration when you're pairing your pocket squares with your suit, shirt and tie is to pick a color(s) from the tie and make sure your pocket square has at least one of its colors.  In regards to wearing a patterned pocket square the preceding rule applies plus you should make sure the pattern doesn't compete for attention with any of the other patterns of the attire.  By the way, even when you don't wear a tie, for a more casual look, you should still consider sporting a pocket square.  I recall a gentleman that I met having a tan patterned sport coat, Panama straw hat, blue jeans, white linen shirt, white cotton pocket square and some tan monk strap shoes.  He was very sharp!

Let's take a look at some combinations from Bernhard Roetzel from his book Gentleman, A Timeless Guide to Fashion:

A plain but not at all bad combination is a white handkerchief with white shirt, discreet necktie and blue blazer.

A somewhat more courageous mixture of patterns in terms of shirt, necktie, and dress handkerchief.  The whole is set against the reassuring framework of a dark gray suit.

Suit, shirt, necktie and dress handkerchief all show patterns.  Thus, the overall picture is harmonious and yet interesting.

By the way, you'll notice that none of the pocket squares are preformed with peaks or otherwise.  The preformed pocket square is somewhat boring in my opinion and akin to ready-tied bow ties and clip-on ties! 

Do you know how to fold a pocket square?  I didn't think so!  Let's take a look at folding a pocket square from Alan Flusser book "Clothes and the Man".

Puffed Fold

Multi-Point Fold

Triangle Fold

Now you have all of the information you need to add the handkerchief to your suit jacket and that pocket square to that breast pocket so go ahead and have some fun experimenting with colors, patterns and textures.  I'm sure you'll will look SMOOTH!!!